I currenty have a rather dingy stock dizzy with the pertornix unit installed on my stock L24 (1971 Z)... but was wanting a more aggressive timing advance. I read that the euro dizzy has just that. Now, has anybody used one of these, and is the curve that much different?

Also, can my current pertronix fit into the euro dizzy?

How much is the MSA unit??? $$$$$

If your current distributor is within factory spec.'s - Just take it to a good automotive electrical shop, and have them re-curve it's timing advance. With a Sun Distributor Machine it is a pretty simple matter to rework the springs/weights to get whatever you want.

If you don't know what you want - I'd suggest that you call Crawford ZCar Service in Nashville.

615-327-4159

http://www.crawfordzcar.com/index.html

Talk to Mr. Carwford about rebuilding your distributor with the best timing curve, or just buying one that he has already rebuilt with electronic ignition and the right timing curve....(reworked 280Z distributor).

I talked to him about this at Road Atlanta a few years ago, when he was rebuilding/reworking distributors for the ITS cars.

FWIW,

Carl B.

THanks very much, I will give him a try!

I have been running the Euro version of the distributor for over 20 years, and I like it. I also have a standard one that I have swapped out a few times.

I a couple of years ago, I added the a new coil and electronic ignition into the Euro distributor. I must say, besides for the quicker starts, not much of a difference with the points were new. I do like the fact that I don't have to change points!!!!

I like using original parts, so that's why I went to the Euro version. However, as mentioned above, you can get your standard reworked, I was just too lazy......

well though lots of waiting, I finally got my hand on a used euro dizzy for my 240Z. I plan to have it rebuilt prior to installing. I plan on using these people...

http://www.advanceddistributors.com/

They will rework the curves if I want to but I think I am going to keep it exactly stock and just get it cleaned, rebushed, and ready to install my pertronix on it. I may even get a new pertronix so I have a complete spare.

I will snap some pictures of the new unit before and after rebuild.

Currently my stock 1971 240Z dizzy has these stats:

Static 5 Degrees

Centrifugal 24 Degrees

Vacuum 18 Degrees

The euro dizzy looks more like this

Stock 17 Degrees

Centrifugal 12 Degrees

Vacuum 11 Degrees

I plan to use the OEM US vacuum advance module on the new european dizzy. I will give my impressions as this goes on.

id like to definitely know how this effects your performance as well. this might be something i want to do with my 78 dizzy (get it reworked for those specs).

Its also important at what point in the power band the dizzy is fully spooled up. That's where the weight/spring settings come in. For example, if the centrifugal advance does not fully kick in until 4,000 rpm but you don't drive there much, you won't feel it very often.

Tlorber, is this something to consider on the 78's dizzy as its electronic and not point system?

Points or not, the advance is still determined by [at least] 3 factors: Static advance (at idle) vacuum advance (depression within the throttle body which is determined how hard you are on the throttle) and centrifugal advance. The latter of these is a balance between the weights wanting to throw outward as revs increase, balanced by the strength of the springs wanting to pull the weights back in. As the weights throw outward they advance the timing of the dizzy beyond where its normal rotation would be.

ok i see. thanks for sharing that. i think ill get mine done when kenobi comes to let us know how it worked out for him.

Shade keep in mind that MSA does not sell these anymore. At least they did not when I checked. I had to buy mine from a nice chap in the UK. That is why I am going to get it rebuilt. As I do not know how good of condition it is in since it is used.

Trading a point distributor for a points distributor is.......quite point-less.The Electronic distributor is superior to points in every measurable way.

As Carl stated,take your distributor and have it re-curved.This "European dizzy" will have no advantage over a properly set up domestic one.

One important point is that the curve must be all in by your cruising rpm.

THe optimal set-up is an electronic dizzy with a proper advance curve.