0 to 60 & Highway HP - 260Z

[ktm]

That little 0-60 mph calculator is fun. If only I could really achieve the numbers it says for my specs.

[Zealous]

Hybridz.org is perhaps a better option for performance upgrades they even have an L6 dedicated section:

http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=86

If you want to keep it in the early Z family then a 280zx turbo motor is probably your best bet for good horsepower at a reasonable price in L6 motor variant.

[TexasRider260Z]

K - Yeah it seems optimistic. I will give it a try after I check over my car real good for a few days.

JC - Thanks and yes I saw that. But I either have to do this, the Rebello 3 liter or stick a supercharger out of the hood :classic:!

Or just roll a new one under it !!

[Arne]

I wouldn't think that getting below 9 should be all that hard. After all, contemporary magazine tests showed mid to high 8s for a stock 240Z in 1970. Granted, a 240Z is lighter, but if your L26 is healthy, and you run a bit of a cam, header and good carbs on it you should easily be able to do better than a stock L24, I should think.

[ktm]

Everybody is focusing on the engine yet forgetting a very simple and inexpensive upgrade that will net improvements as well: gearing!

Swap out the rear gears for a set of 3.90 or 4.11. You'll run out of top end but the first 1/4-mile will be fun.

[Zs-ondabrain]

My 0 to 60 is about 6 seconds. give or take a second.

Rolling 30 to 60 is about 2 seconds. If I'm in 3rd gear, I can drop it into 1st and top out around 6500, hit second and 60 in about 2 seconds. Sure, my old motor blows a little smoke out the back end, but that's to be expected of a 170K mile motor.

I weigh in around 2400 curb weight. But the 3:90 diff, 225/50ZR16's, 79' ZX 5-speed, Killer ignition set-up, cam, exhaust and all that jazz get me down the road pretty damn fast. Ya, it may seem faster than it really is but the look on most Honda drivers faces is precious to take in, when this little red bullet wipes the pavement with their face.

Funny thing is.. With all this performance, I also get 27MPG on the freeway. I love the 5 speed.

Edited January 27, 2009 by Zs-ondabrain

[Carl Beck]

Can the Z get close to say 200 Hp from all that?

Not really. To get close to 200hp at the rear wheels you'd have to go to higher compression (12:1) even if you use an L28 in stead of the L26 in the car now.

Most dyno runs on stock 260Z's that show 120hp at the rear wheels when rated at 150hp at the engine, show something close to 165hp after adding the modifications you mention.

200hp at the engine, will not get you the performance indicated by the calculator.

The best bang for the buck - if you want to stick with the in-line six - is the 280ZX Turbo motor with some mods.'s. Easy to get 200 to 250hp at the rear wheels with them and they can run on pump gas. You'll spend closer to $6K by the time it's all said and done - on the turbo engine and components needed to install it with a modern engine management system.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[Carl Beck]

I have not owned a 260Z in about 30 plus years. Over the past 2 weeks I looked at a new 370 and bought a 260.

.....{snipped....cjb}

If this does not work better give me number to Nissan dealer with new 370s on the lot.

Thanks.

IMHO - there is simply no comparison between a soup'ed up 260Z, and a 40 year newer 370Z. You simply can not buy that level of total performance for anything less than the $35K to $40K it takes to get a 370Z. Unless you buy a slightly used 350Z/G35 for something close to $20K or less.

A used 350Z/G35 might be something to seriously consider.

When it comes to the 370Z, the real question is; "should you buy the 370Z, or the G37?" I say go with the G37 as the Infiniti Dealers are so much better to deal with. Right now you can get a really good deal on one if you shop around and "0" percent on the loan.

If on the other hand - you really don't want to spend $35K to $40K on the G37 - and you really want a toy tpo play with...

I wouldn't spend the money on head work, cam kits, triple side drafts and headers - - - without going though the bottom end and re-balancing an engine to start with. Without a near perfect bottom end, all the stuff on top will only be yielding 80 to 85% of its potential anyway.

Even when your done - you can't beat cc's and professional engine builders.

For what your talking about - IMHO - order the 3.0/3.1 liter from Rebello and be done with it. Have Rebello build the SU's to go with it. Drop in a 3.7 rear gear with the 81-83 5spd. Then upgrade the brakes, go to coil overs so you can get some wider rubber on the road and good shocks in the struts.

Strip off WEIGHT! The 260Z is at least 200lbs to heavy and it needs to lose weight. Replace the bumpers with 240Z bumpers. Leave the spare tire at home, never run with over 1/4 tank of gas (unless you are going on a long highway trip).

In the end - you might have $12K to $14K in upgrades, plus the cost of the car to begin with. That should put you well under 1/2 the price of the 370Z. Five years later, your Street Mod 260Z will still be worth say 85% of what you put into it - - while the used 370Z will be worth about 50% of what it cost new.

Bottom line - every time I've made compromises based on "price" - I've been unhappy with the decision.

You want total performance - and something to impress your friends - go make your best deal on an Infiniti G37.

You want a reasonably quick car that has Classic lines - and will keep up with the 40 year newer stuff strictly on the basis of straight line speed - spend the money up front and spend it all at once. Order the Rebello Engine and start collecting all the other parts you'll need.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[ktm]

Carl, I must disagree with your $6k figure to achieve 200 to 250 whp using a stock L28ET. You do not need a modern engine management system to achieve that goal. The stock ECU, turbo and fuel system are good to 10 psi of boost. At 10 psi of boost, you are already close to 200 whp. A little tweaking of the system and you can run a bit more boost on the stock EFI, add an intercooler, and you are over 200 whp. You can do this all for less than $700.

If you want anything more, though, and I agree that you will need to spend quite a bit more money: fuel injectors, aftermarket engine management system, larger turbo, exhaust system, etc.

To the original poster, if you go the turbo route be forewarned, boost is addictive. Next thing you know you'll be sinking serious coin into your setup. I thought I was going to have a mild turbo build, but when I was done I was putting down 320 wheel ft-lbs of torque and 300 whp. A year later and I am now at 410 wheel ft-lbs and 400 whp (on a stock head, block and intake I might add).

I am now in the process of going after more power.

[TexasRider260Z]

Thank you for joining in here on this Carl.

Heck I should have left the car in California as it was right in Rebellos neighborhood. Well I can always just drive it back out there amd leave it with Rebello and the custom detailer guys too. I better re-inforce the whole car with bars and race cage if I have that HP in it - and make a deposit on speeding tickets too !

Carl, I dont think that you sell cars, nor do you or I have an crystal ball here, but has that 80% "worth" held up to sale amounts excluding say the last months of 2008? If that holds true then I am a more inclined and likely to take this route. I dont envision selling it as it just a toy - but other toys come along , or boys that are suppossed to graduate from college dont, etc ... You know how it is!

Plus I would not want to have 20,000 in a car truly worth 5,000 - no wonder there is a recession if this happens too much. What I am trying to say is I want to have a truly quality old-er classic car for that kind of price, work and time.

If I was going to put 12,000 miles a year on it I would likely do as you say and head down to the Infiniti dealer and then jump on my office mates Jags - well most of them anyway. One of them drives an XKR - it hauls. And it should.

It would be used maybe once a week and maybe a weekend or two.

My car is due in a day or two so I will chew on this and drive it a week or two before I go shopping for HP. That might all change when Gary dusts me with that XK - of course I will just wrap a chain around him and hook him to my 4WD Avalanche and then see how he does as I tool on over for Mexican food on Friday in my old school Z!

:classic::classic::classic::classic:

[TexasRider260Z]

Bo:

Thamks for that. Good work on your car - must be addictive!

YIKES at 400HP in this style car I would have to add a titanium frame around the car and a chute . :classic:

[Carl Beck]

Carl, I dont think that you sell cars, nor do you or I have an crystal ball here, but has that 80% "worth" held up to sale amounts excluding say the last months of 2008? If that holds true then I am a more inclined and likely to take this route. I dont envision selling it as it just a toy - but other toys come along , or boys that are suppossed to graduate from college dont, etc ... You know how it is!

Plus I would not want to have 20,000 in a car truly worth 5,000 - no wonder there is a recession if this happens too much. What I am trying to say is I want to have a truly quality old-er classic car for that kind of price, work and time.

I don't presently sell cars - although I worked my way through college selling cars and working in bars. I sold DATSUN's in 72/73... and have my Century Club ring to this day.

Over the past 20 or so years - I have tried to follow the Classic Z Car Market, and have been personally involved in finding and buying many of the best examples for several serious Collectors.

The street rod market is very interesting - - 20 years ago, if you put $25K into building a street rod or custom car, you would be very lucky to get $5K for it when you sold. That market is entirely different today. You'll see street rods/custom cars going for well over $85K on a pretty regular basis and some have gone over $100K. These numbers are for the Best of the Best of course... but they set the bar for the market in general.

15 years ago - a pure stock 240-Z in #1 condition would have sold for $12K (or more)... and fifteen years ago it would have cost the person doing the restoration himself - about $12K plus the cost of the car to start with. Take that same starting point and spend $12K on performance enhancements and that street mod Z might resell for $6K.

Today, that is no longer the case - A #1 condition restoration will cost at least $30K in addition to the car that you start with - and #1 Condition 240-Z's will resell for $28K+. A high quality street mod Z will cost at least $18K today to build... and if done right it can be sold for $12K to $14K...

Again - here we are talking in very general terms - and talking about street mod's done to the highest standards of quality... not some backyard hacked up monster... nor some half finished project...

Also - you can figure that the First Generation Z's will all appreciate over the next five years as well.

So yes - done right, with quality workmanship all around - and complete - I don't think one would have much problem recovering at least 80% of the money spent (not counting your labor).

Everyone can argue with the absolute numbers - but that's a general overview. Nonetheless the Key is "High Quality"... to attract the buyers willing to spend the money at the higher end.

I should add - keep very good records and photo history of the build. High quality cars are usually well documented...

FWIW,

Carl B.

Edited January 27, 2009 by Carl Beck