tripple web carbs hard to start

[myfairlady]

Hi everyone. Here is my ordeal...

I have tripple weber carbs. It was running one morning and I parked it in the garage so taht I can take out the bleed valve fromt he bottom of the bowl. It was stripped and I bought a new one. Machine shop took it out for me and then i put it back on.

Now my car wont start. This is what I have on the car

73 240z

78 L28 engine with the electrical ignition module

40dcoe

mail 130

f11 tubes

air 180

50f9 idle

I checked the gas, good

check spark, good

got a new ignition module good

got a msd good

still not cranking. cranks alittle but then just turns

Can anyone help me on this please

[ChrisZ]

Please define "cranks a little" have you tried to pump on the gas pedal while cranking it.

Chris

[myfairlady]

crank mening about to start or engage. I tried pumping the gas as well but no luck

[doradox]

Sounds flooded. Hold your foot to the floor and crank 'till she starts. Let off once she starts running.:cheeky:

Steve

[Zs-ondabrain]

OK lets clear up a few things first.

To "Crank" means to engage the starter so that the motor is spinning in an effort to start the motor.

If you drained the Bowl, the bowl needs time to refill. If you have 40DCOE's, you should be able to unscrew the tops and pour a little gas in there to help.

I noticed that you did'nt mention a Fuel pump of any kind. I'm guessing that you have a stock mechanical fuel pump. If you do, it is barely sufficiant but will work. But to get true fuel and performance out of your 40DCOE's, you need an electric Fuel pump with at least 4 pounds of pressure. Most are happy with the Carter fuel pump and it should be mounted near the stock location, near the tank.

Being a 73', it most likely has a fuel pump but maybe it's time to check it out and make sure the filters are new or at least clean and putting out the propper amount of fuel.

Buy a regular can of starting Fluid and spray all three carbs (all 6 holes)

Your plugs should be NGK's and nothing else. Same goes for the plug wires.

I've run into the same issue with mine but the above listed seem to work wonders for me. I have....

70' 240Z

L24 w/ an E88 head

Manuel fuel pump (Stock)

Weber 40DCOE's

Mallory Unilte Distributor

Mallory Promaster Coil

MSD 6AL

MSD Tach adaptor

NGK wires and Plugs (set the gap at 0.065) As this set-up spits lightning!!

With this set-up, I get an easy 25 HP over stock. Great fuel, great spark, great starting. Killer MPG, about 28 on the freeway.

Good luck,

Dave.

[myfairlady]

Yes sorry about that I should be more specific

Crank meaning about to start. it turns and then tries to start but then the second time is doesnt just turns.

Heres what I have

78Engine distributor with the e12-80 ignition module

tripple webers 40dcoe

main 130

f11 tubes

air 180

50f9 idles

2.00 needle valves

55 bleeds

45 pump

new holley fuel pump with regulator

msd 6a

msd blaster 3coil

NGK spark plugs and wires

So wouldnt if flood the bowls if I put gas in there when its pumping through already?

I notice today when I went to go check the setting on the floats. The rear carb pump is pressed all the way down and not springing up. I can open the butterfly's with the linkage but pressign it down at the pump wont go down. I can pull it up but then falls back down.. Could this be the reason why im having a hard time starting?

The floats are set right.

[Zs-ondabrain]

Yup, sounds like your spring is broke. Take that assembly apart and get it to stand up again. Don't put fuel in the top as I suggested earlier. You've obviously got enough being pumped up there.

Fix that piece and try again.

[myfairlady]

Zs-ondabrain. I looked at your pictures of the engine. Is my wires set up wrong? Mine is

1-5-3-6-2-4

Is this wrong cause according to the book it should be like this???

[Zs-ondabrain]

that's correct

see this..... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30868

mine is correct but looks weird cause of the Mallory. the rotor was 180 off. but it's stil the same firing order.

Just make sure you put your #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke (put your thumb ober the spark plug hole and as the piston comes up, it should blow air out past your finger)

Look at your rotor, mark the outside of the dist. where the rotor is pointing, put the cap on and put the #1 plug wire on that spot. Then wire the rest in place (153624) Counter-clockwise. That should give you a good starting point. Advance or retard from there.

That's what I did and it works great.

Dave

Edited February 2, 2009 by Zs-ondabrain

[myfairlady]

Ok I was wondering about the plugs. I will be ordering the pump valve spring. Hopefully that will help my problem. I'll let you know. Thanks really fro all your help

[myfairlady]

So I checked the pump jet. The spring is good so I switched the middle one to the other side and the rear pump jet is still going down. Doesn anyone have any input on how to fix that delema or what can cause the pump jet to go down like that?? The rear ppump jet i put in the middle adn it works perfectly.. What could be the simptoms on that????

[Zs-ondabrain]

I'd say it's an Internal Spring. The 40DCOE Webers have a spring loaded choke and it it slips or pops off, the pump also falls down.

Sounds like it's time for a tear down. Find the spring that "Sprung the coop. ya know?