Heater panel

[rdefabri]

Still working my install of the OEM radio in my '72. One thing that's vexed me has been re-installation of the heater panel (with cables still attached).

As radio install did not require me to remove the heater / vent cables, I was able to pull them out slightly. Problem is that now when I screw the heater panel back in, there's a "bulge" right where the controls are. This actually led to a crack in my heater panel (my stupid fault), and the top slide is very difficult to move left/right.

I see no obstruction, so that's not the issue. Is it possible that cables themselves are causing the resistance? Should I post pics?

Also, the air outlet vent now rotates 360 degrees - I thought it should only be 180 degrees. Perhaps I reinstalled it incorrectly? (Rhetorical question - obviously with the bulge something is wrong!)

Anyone experience something similar?

[MikeW]

Still working my install of the OEM radio in my '72. One thing that's vexed me has been re-installation of the heater panel (with cables still attached).

As radio install did not require me to remove the heater / vent cables, I was able to pull them out slightly.

I think you'll have a far easier time if you disconnect all of the cables near the firewall. There's just not enough movement available with them attached at both ends and it's not possible to re-attach the control panel ends once the panel is back in place.

Also, the air outlet vent now rotates 360 degrees - I thought it should only be 180 degrees. Perhaps I reinstalled it incorrectly? (Rhetorical question - obviously with the bulge something is wrong!)

That's interesting. Mine has spun 360 degrees ever since I got my car even though the back side of the vent clearly does not have the same finish as the front.

[rdefabri]

Mike,

Thanks for the reply! You may be right about the center vent - maybe old age has me forgetting.

On the heater panel - well, I already removed and reattached without removing the cables. Are you saying I have to remove the cables from the firewall to try to eliminate the bulge?

I suspect I bent something that's not going back into place. But I am not certain removing them will rectify.

[MikeW]

I'm not saying you have to remove the cables, only that things will go a whole lot easier if you do. I'm not sure what's causing your bulge but it sounds like an obstruction of some sort and forcing it is not a good idea. Are you sure the slider box is completely attached to the control panel? I think that requires four small screws. Removing the other end of the cables is actually quite easy. There's a single screw that attaches the cable clamp as I recall.

[rdefabri]

Right - got you. The slider assembly is completely attached. I seriously think that I may have altered one of the bends in the wire back there. I tugged at it, and the top slider is now hard to move - it's not sliding freely

[rdefabri]

Figured it out - the slider assembly that attaches to the back of the HCP was bent slightly. Bent it back and voila! It works fine, and no bulge!

[EScanlon]

Glad you got it resolved.

Just to fill in for others that find this article:

Quoting from one of the links mentioned earlier:

The 4 cables are connected 2 on the left side of the heater box itself, 1 on the right of the box to the water control valve and the last one, the longest goes to the fresh air flap which is behind the fan motor housing.

Take note that there are FOUR cables and THREE levers. One of the levers actuates TWO cables and that is the TOP lever. The other two levers are single cables.

The top lever controls

a) the fresh air vent that opens at the firewall vent valve behind the heater blower motor (the longest cable)

AND

the internal flap valve that ducts the air through the heater core OR straight through to the side and center vents in the dash. (the cable connected to the uppermost connection on the heater box on the left side)

(FYI: There is NO position for the heat to flow out of the side and center vents, you will only get fresh air ... or not.)

The middle lever controls the hot water valve. (right side of heater)

The bottom lever controls the two side doors on the heater box (left lower side of heater box). When the doors are shut the air is forced through to the defroster ducts, otherwise the air is allowed out to the "room".

I noticed that that information wasn't included in some of the other posts.

Enrique

[rdefabri]

Enrique,

Thanks for clarifying this!

I am glad I got it resolved as well - few things are worse than feeling like you've done something wrong and not knowing how to fix it.