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Tierod removal with HAMMER question


PATZ

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Hello all!

I`d like to disconnect my outer tierod from the spindle as part of a procedure to remove my front suspension arm. Thus, i plan on using the tierod again. This is my first time to do this by the way. I`ve read some of the threads on outer tie rod removal using only a hammer to vibrate the tierod end loose from the spindle, i`m aware of the pickle fork and the tierod remover but really would rather go the ULTRA cheap method with a heavy hammer. I read that you dont hit the tierod itself or the tierod arm, that you hit the one the tierods connect to (Spindle/steering knuckle). Now to my question, does it matter wether i hit the spindle from above or below(of course i can hammer harder from above)? Oh, any chance of distorting the steering knuckle and thus possibly causing an alignment adjustment problem? Thanks!

Edited by PATZ
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Here in the States you can rent/borrow a pickle fork set from most auto parts stores (NAPA, Schucks, AutoZone, Kragen). Is there any place by you where you might be able to borrow a set?

I just got a loaner kit for changing the ball joints on my Ford Exploder and it really helped.

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The hammer method involves hitting the steering arm, not the tie rod.

The tie rod spindle is in a tapered hole. The idea is that whacking the steering arm pops the tie rod out. I've been told to have a drift (another hammer will do) on the opposite side (to absorb the impact)

Here's some ascii art to try and illustrate the method

[hammer] whack ->(o)[drift]

where (o) is the steering arm, looking straight down ontop of it.

Didn't work for me so I bought a tie rod separator. They aren't too expensive.

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The hammer method works well. The key is to use a large hammer and hit the steering arm HARD. I usually leave the nut on the tie rod end but loosen it a few turns. That way if you miss the steering arm you won't bugger the threads on the tie rod end. You should be swinging the hammer roughly parallel to the floor like Mr. Camouflage diagrammed. I've done this literally hundreds of times and it has always worked.

Steve

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Guys THANKS A LOT for the replies! I`l give it a shot tom.

johnnyrock- No such thing as loaner kits over here. You either buy it or have it done at a shop.

mr camouflage- its a joke looking for specialty tools over here! Thanks for the tips!

doradox- hundreds of times? thats encouraging. Thanks as well!

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I have a pickle fork attachment that goes on my air hammer. Effortless and damage free. Why use a hammer when there are so many easily damaged and hard to find parts under involved? Not to mention the extra cost involved when you break something that wouldn't get broken if you used the right tool(s) in the first place? "Cheap" can suddenly become expensive.

Edited by sblake01
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Too late for that! I already got it done. Thankfully it wasnt one of those rusted out deals (or else the reality of breaking something woulda been REAL!), tierod came off after several moderate force hits with the hammer. Uhm, may i say that cheap is kinda relative to what part of the world you're from, unfortunately i`m from that part of the world. But THANKS for your concern all the same!

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I have a pickle fork attachment that goes on my air hammer. Effortless and damage free. Why use a hammer when there are so many easily damaged and hard to find parts under involved? Not to mention the extra cost involved when you break something that wouldn't get broken if you used the right tool(s) in the first place? "Cheap" can suddenly become expensive.

If you aren't reusing the tie rod end then a pickle fork is great. Not all tie rod ends have replaceable boots so a pickle fork can cause unnecessary damage to a boot in cases where the end is being removed for the servicing of some other component. Or you just replace the damaged end and add it to the cost of the job. I Can't say I ever caused any damage using the hammer method.

Steve

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If you aren't reusing the tie rod end then a pickle fork is great. Not all tie rod ends have replaceable boots so a pickle fork can cause unnecessary damage to a boot in cases where the end is being removed for the servicing of some other component. Or you just replace the damaged end and add it to the cost of the job. I Can't say I ever caused any damage using the hammer method.

Steve

If I'm trying to save the boot then I use the press type tool. Like I said, the right tool for the right job. Hammer away if you must.:)
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If I'm trying to save the boot then I use the press type tool. Like I said, the right tool for the right job. Hammer away if you must.:)

I don't define the "right tool" as the one the Snap-on man tells I need. If it does the jobs quickly and easily then it's the right tool. There are a lot of "right tools" that really don't work all that well. The tools you use work fine but aren't the only "right tools" for the job.

Steve

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