rtaylor Posted February 6, 2009 Share #13 Posted February 6, 2009 (edited) There are quite a few guys out here within a 30 mile radius RJ. Elvan the mechanic I use only works on Zs and is a master mechanic. I was lucky to get the referral. My car is quite similiar to Arne's. Only 30,100 miles on it now. Almost unmolested except for the splash pan and battery cover. Could use some paint, still the original paintjob, but I keep it as a survivor...Here's a picture from the front that I like. Edited February 6, 2009 by rtaylor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeMoore Posted February 6, 2009 Share #14 Posted February 6, 2009 Paint looks great from the picture. I live one or two cities over from you, any chance I could get the name of that Z mechanic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Palmer Posted February 6, 2009 Share #15 Posted February 6, 2009 As for putting an L28, I'm going to stick with my L24 now that I've just done the Ztherepy carbs for it.Don't let the carbs hold you back from going 2.8. Our standard production carbs will give you everything you'll want. We have several record holder hillclimb 2.8 cars with our carbs here locally.Carry on..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arne Posted February 6, 2009 Share #16 Posted February 6, 2009 BTW - from your avatar, your car looks like Arne's in yellow (similar rims and air dam). My car is quite similiar to Arne's. Only 30,100 miles on it now. Almost unmolested except for the splash pan and battery cover. Could use some paint, still the original paintjob, but I keep it as a survivor...Here's a picture from the front that I like.Yup, the exact same rims, and other than the fact that my spook was built within the last 18 months, the same.Mine has a bit more than double the miles on it (>66k now), and has been repainted once when the sunroof was deleted. All the other mods on it can easily be restored to stock - steel fan, AM radio, Koito headlights, alternator, etc. I still have all the original parts other than the same splash pan and battery cover Randy mentioned, and I don't have either the original exhaust, nor the stock wheels and hubcaps. Here's a similar picture of mine, a larger version of my sig pic. The similarities (once past the color) are striking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Beck Posted February 6, 2009 Share #17 Posted February 6, 2009 .....the Z shop I go to normally (ALT Z) is asking close to $5500 to rebuild my engine top to bottom. Seems a bit high.....AND As for the good news, I'm willing to dish out a decent amount on a new motor... Actually it is hard to tell - you have not given us enough specific information. That could be because you do not yet have a clearly written, specific estimate, for the work proposed. All manor of numbers can be and usually are thrown around when guys at the "shop" are just talking, or trying to give answers off the top of their heads.... usually that is worthless data.First place to start is to ask the shop or shops you are considering to give you a written estimate, that shows clearly and in detail all labor costs (not just a total), and the specific parts as well as machine shop charges expected. That shouldn't be too hard from them to do, if they have much experience with the L Series engines.If your shop said "top to bottom" - - does that price include six new pistons, a new cam and all new rockers, retainers. Does it include 12 new valves & seats? Does it include having the machine shop hot tank, bore and deck the block? Are the crank and rods going to be shot peened and magnifluxed?Actually it's easy to "spend" $5,500.00 rebuilding an engine. The question is - "is it necessary for your purposes?" It is also easy to make more "profit" on a job that the customer pays $3,500.00 for - if all that is included in the "rebuilt" is rings/bearings and fresh valve job.Not to mention - answering the question of who is going to pull and reinstall the engine in the car. Then there is this thing called "schedule". I've seen cars in the shop, work completed and the customer drives out happy in two weeks - - I've seen others that took four months to six months. Shops that underbid the work, get into the engine and then have no real motivation to finish it.... so it gets constantly put behind more profitable work... while they blame the machine shop for the hold-up.All the advice so far has merit - but I really think your starting point has to be to establish a very specific baseline - - and that means getting detailed and clearly written estimates from any shop. The estimate has to include a completion date or specific number of weeks it will take, with associated discounts when it isn't completed on time.Last thought - I agree that if you want performance - swap the SU's onto a rebuilt L28... The advantage there also includes a quick turn-around. After the L28 is rebuilt and ready to go - you'd only be in the shop for a day - - then out driving again...FWIW,Carl B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarCrazy24 Posted February 7, 2009 Author Share #18 Posted February 7, 2009 Sounds good to me guys! I just brought my car home today from the shop with the fresh carbs from ZTherepy...more smoke out the back than normal, maybe that's just from the fresh carbs. I'll keep an eye on it and keep you updated. For now I'm going to talk to Rtaylor and go from there. For now I'm going to enjoy the car, check the oil weekly and clean the spark plug on cylinder 6 more often. Anything else I should do? Thanks again for all the advice, and if I do end up rebuilding the engine I'm going to look for an L28 now that you guys have given me the go ahead =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Palmer Posted February 7, 2009 Share #19 Posted February 7, 2009 To your knowledge has this engine sat for any extended period? If it has, you may have nothing more than a stuck oil ring on number 6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarCrazy24 Posted February 7, 2009 Author Share #20 Posted February 7, 2009 hmm, as far as I know, the car was sitting for about four to five months, started occasionally. how could i diagnose a stuck oil ring problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Palmer Posted February 7, 2009 Share #21 Posted February 7, 2009 It will require an oil change with a potion of some sort that is designed to cut carbon build up in the ring groove where the expander has crudded up locking the 2 oil rings in the collapsed position. Ask me how I know..... For the potion just ask around. For every 12 guys you ask you'll get 12 different recipes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich1 Posted February 7, 2009 Share #22 Posted February 7, 2009 Randy.You mentioned that Elvan is your mechanic--didn't he own the Upland shop? Is he back in business? I thought he closed up this fall. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarCrazy24 Posted February 7, 2009 Author Share #23 Posted February 7, 2009 At this point Bruce, I'll take any potion you have in mind, haha. Sounds interesting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted February 7, 2009 Share #24 Posted February 7, 2009 Seafoam the engine would be a start and may help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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