whats next?

[Fordlover]

ok HI all been working on the car off and on for about 2 years now. just a few questions. 4/75 hls30-213502 So what have I got? 260?280? ok I have been having problems with the car wanting to run for a few miles then stumble, then cut out. I turn the key off then back on to the start position ,then I have to jump the starter because the key won't crank it,then it will run good for another few miles and then it starts acting up again. Since I bought this car I have replaced the injectors,installed used fuel pump,fuel filter,temp sensor(just this morning) and it still acts up. I have had the tank out and washed it out with Muratic acid whic cleans it great but then it starts rusting again right before your eyes. the last time I cleaned the tank ( it was out of the car for a few months) I poured Ospho in it hoping the rust would not return. I also installed a inline see thru filter between the tank and the fuel pump. I took it out yesterday and cleaned it. the filter is reuseable. it had rust granules in it. after installing the new the new temp sensor an hour ago I took it for a ride around the block and it ran like a bat outa hell. So I think (with my fingers crossed) that this car is now ready to go. I am riding home and it starts cutting out and back firing out the air cleaner so I pull over and it dies. I turn off the key turn it back on and get out to jump the starter and it runs great and I get home. I check the plug on the temp sensor and its good. I look at the gas filter and its got rust granules flouting around in it again. not really wanting to clean it out again as the gas runs out the tank and down my arm,not fun. any sugestions? just trying to get this car running before I get to the heater not working! thanks for anybodies time and maybe with the help of you people on this site.Stephen in Ford country Georgia

Edited February 6, 2009 by Fordlover

[Fordlover]

my hair is already grey I don't want to start pulling it out!LOLStephen in Ga.

[Arne]

First, your car is a 280Z, not a 260Z. That is shown by both the build date in '75, and also by the 'H' in the VIN. (A 260Z would start with an 'R'.)

As for the rust in the fuel lines, I'll have to wait for more experienced people to chime in on what needs to be done. I've not had any rusty tanks in any of my 240Zs here in Oregon, and I have no knowledge of the fuel system on the fuel injected cars.

[peterc]

Cleaning out the tank removed the existing rust, but as you have already discovered, doesn't prevent it from reforming. Whatever protective coating that was on the metal originally has long since gone, so any humid air entering the tank during fill-ups condences, restarting the rusting process anew.

Most people will reline the tank after having it cleaned to prevent rust issues from re-occuring. There are several products out there that will do the job. Several club members have used and recommend POR's gas tank relining product, and I'm sure others will chime in with their recommendations.

Regardless of which one you choose, be sure to clean the filter on the fuel pump itself (this could very well be your problem if it wasn't cleaned previously), and "blow" out the fuel lines, including the fuel rail, with compressed air to remove last vestiges of rust from the system. Replace the fuel filters one more time, and at the very least you can eliminate this as the source of youe problem.

And by the way, shame on you for even thinking that you need a working heater in Georgia, . "Ottawa...nine months of winter...three months of tough sledding".

Cheers,

p

[Fordlover]

thanks for the input I have a can of thatpor 15 sealer stuff but didn't buy all the cleaning extras. and It says on the can that the tank has to be clean and dry. I am unemployed right now so money is tight as I am rebuilding my 302 FORD truck engine. but I guess I better go back to ebay and get the whole tank resto kit! I think it is going to get to 70* today I am down to the tee shirt. but the last couple evenings it has got to 17 and 18 I don't see how northern people can live in that weather, I spent my 1st 39 years in south fla. but now that is another country and another story for another website. I will blow everything out this evening and take that finger screen out of the pump. if that doesn't work I will have to find a fuel prssure gauge. they are 50+$ at the auto/zone.kind of pricey! thanks again all. Stephen in Hot Tee shirt middle Georgia

[Zs-ondabrain]

Are you the same "FordLover" that sold me that MSD 6A on Ebay, less than a year ago?

[sblake01]

You can make your own simple fuel pressure guage with a 5/8" brass T, a couple of hose barbs and a gauge from a hardware store. Under 20 bucks. I did them for under 10 but I worked at a hardware store (employee discount).

[DeesZ]

Sputtering and cutting out could be a fuel supply problem as addressed above, but the inability to restart the car without jumping the starter sounds electrical in nature, doesn't it? Sounds like several things going on at the same time perhaps. My car ('72) is not EFI, so I can't speak to that, but I did have a restarting problem at one point which was resolved by cleaning the electrical connections at the battery, starter, and grounds and swapping in new battery cables. Cleaning up the connections helped, but didn't totally eliminate the problem. New cables took care of the issue totally.