Testing BALLJOINT w/ suspension arm off ok?

[PATZ]

Hi guys!

I finally got my front suspension arm(track control arm) off and just had the new bushings pressed in. So now with the Radius rod(compression rod), Outer tierod and Stabiliser bar and suspension arm DISCONNECTED but with the strut-hub-drum assembly still connected to the Driveshaft, can i "properly"(backyard mechanic style) check the condition of my Balljoints without having to put everything back together with the wheels on? I simply held the flat plate end (with mounting holes) of the balljoint and started moving it around (no i dont have any kind of gauge for checking play) and compared it with a NEW aftermarket balljoint, and it felt about the same as the new one. There are NO tears on the rubber boot of the old one. Can i assume pretty much that the old balljoint is still ok? I`d hate to throw away a perfectly usable balljoint(and would rather not have to remove the old balljoint). Any comments, suggestions appreciated! THANK YOU!

[PATZ]

Ok, i was just thinkin that maybe a balljoint CANT be tested properly when its not preloaded w/ everything back on? Regardless, i`ve decided to put in NEW aftermarket balljoints from a Nissan specialist in our area. But being that old or new parts for the Z here are nearly impossible to come by, and being that majority of our roads are pretty bad, i would still like to try to salvage my old balljoints as a spare as i can have it injected w/ some polymer to have it work well enough for a few more years. Anyway, the castle nut on the balljoint seems stuck, so i will soak it in wd40 for a day. To make matters worse it seems i need a thin walled 22mm socket to fit the space around the castle nut(at least at one portion of the castle nut)? Or can i just hammer my "regular" walled 22mm socket in to fit the castle nut without damaging the part around the castle nut? IF i cant take out the castle nut, i plan on cutting up the castle nut w/ a hacksaw to remove it then. Either way i plan to put the steering arm in a vise and pound at the steering arm near the threaded end of the balljoint and hope it comes off. What do you guys think? THANKS!

[ezzzzzzz]

Is the cotter pin out? Is it broken off and not allowing the nut to turn? That nut shouldn't be that tight. An impact socket should fit. If you're stuck using a thin wall then use only a 6 point. You can also try a 7/8 socket. It's .875" while the 22mm equates to .866". Get hole of a ball joint separator. Using a hammer will likely cause more problems. Use only TRW ball joints. The rest won't last.

[PATZ]

ezzzz- Too late, i chiselled the nut off(awfully rusted). I went on the cheap and had it injected w/some polymer, we`ll see how it goes. THANKS for the advice though!