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71 Distributor replacement


peng155

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Hi Folks,

Basic timing question for you.... I'm replacing the stock distributor in the 'Z' with a Mallory Unilite unit.

If I line up the TDC mark on the engine pulley with the timing mark on the engine block, will this be close enough to where once I make the swap the engine will start up so i can hook up a timing lite to get it dialed in?

The TDC mark doesn't exactly have the rotor line up with the number 1 plug position on the cap, and I don't want to remove anything before I have the timing lined up correctly.

Thanks

-Phil

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Because it's a new (Non-Datsun) Dizzy You'll have to make your own timing marks. Twist it till it's dead center, then make a mark on the Unilite and the timing plate on the neck. Mine is 180 out because of where the Vaccum advance pot sat on the Unilite. So I twisted it to my own liking.

Do about a 7 degree advance then try and start it. As long as you have #1 up on the compression stroke, and the rotor and #1 plug are lined up, you should be able to dial it in quickly.

Have fun, it's the best damn thing I ever installed on my 240Z. I haven't even had to change the rotor or cap. The brass tab on the rotor is changable and flip-able. Soild brass tips inside the cap stay clean and are easily cleaned as well.

Dave.

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Thanks for the info Dave, I'll have fun once the weather turns sunny, and the car is back on the road again.

I still got the electrical upgrade I recently emailed you about to do, and the induction mods I'll need to do to make room for the MSD. I'll be in touch....

-Phil

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Just remember that just because the timing mark lines up with the pointer on the engine , it DOESN'T MEAN THE ENGINE IS ON ITS COMPRESSION STROKE. You could vary well be 180* out of time. However if you are on the compression stroke and line up the timing marks , all you need to do is plunk in the dist where you want to have it point and where ever the rotor points , THIS IS #1 and the plug wire from that position goes to the #1 spark plug and following the firing order the rest of the wires follow. It's that simple.

Edited by beandip
type o and further info.
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Just remember that just because the timing mark lines up with the pointer on the engine , it DOESN'T MEAN THE ENGINE IS ON ITS COMPRESSION STROKE. You could vary well be 180* out of time.

This is what I'm sort of worried about... The timing marks are in the general ball park of the pointer on the block, The rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire on the cap.

Should I take the valve cover off and check to make sure the valves on #1 are closed?

Thanks

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If the engine was running before you removed the old dizzy and you didn't mess with the drive spindle you will be fine.Dizzy only fits one way in relation to spindle,drive tang on spindle is machined offset so it will only fit one way.

Edited by Zforce
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If the engine was running before you removed the old dizzy and you didn't mess with the drive spindle you will be fine.Dizzy only fits one way in relation to spindle,drive tang on spindle is machined offset so it will only fit one way.

I started the car up before i started doing any work, so i know the timing is currently correct... now if it stay's that way after I get done is another matter :nervous:

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