cleaned carbs, now running wierd...

[clindayag1]

after sitting for a couple of months, i decided to give the car a little tune up and then start it up. i cleaned the carb bowls and cylinders, then put new ATF in. also replaced the plugs, wires, cap, and coil.

after doing all of that, it started up just fine but i noticed that it was idling a little bit rough. usually it smooths out once it warms up a bit, so i revved it a little bit to warm up and it started to buckle and almost stall. the only way to get it to rev well and drive was to pull to choke so that it idled at like 850-900 rpm and the problems go away.

so what could be the problem? i'm guessing it has something to do with the carbs? any help would be greatly appreciated;)

Edited February 22, 2009 by clindayag1

[Nigel1943]

What "cylinders" did you clean?

[Bruce Palmer]

Did you do any adjusting in the float bowls or alter the mixture nut settings under the carbs? If pulling the choke on works, you're lean.

[JZM]

Don't forget to check the nozzle jets. sometimes after sitting for too long they get sticky and don't return to the upright position after closing the choke up after warm up.

Do you still have points in the distributor? if so recheck the gap and dwell. even a weak condensor could cause similer problems.

JZM...

[clindayag1]

after cleaning the carbs, i didnt adjust the float or the mixture. i thought it was running lean so i richened it a little bit and the symptoms actually got worse. it could be the distributor i didn't think of that :stupid: i'll buy some new points and condenser and let you guys know the results. thanks you guys for all of your suggestions

[Nigel1943]

What "cylinders" did you clean?

OK, so I'm assuming the "cylinders" you cleaned were the dashpots on the top of the carbs? Have you checked to make sure the internal piston is rising and falling smoothly? There's a button underneath the carb to check this. Also make sure you have oil in the dashpot.

[clindayag1]

OK, so I'm assuming the "cylinders" you cleaned were the dashpots on the top of the carbs? Have you checked to make sure the internal piston is rising and falling smoothly? There's a button underneath the carb to check this. Also make sure you have oil in the dashpot.

oops, i meant pistons, not cylinders:stupid:. i pretty much cleaned everything under the bowls. actually, i put ATF instead of oil in the dashpot. could that be the problem? i heard of people using atf in the dashpont as an alternative.

[Nigel1943]

ATF is a bit thin but that on it's own should'nt cause the problem. As I said, make sure the pistons are rising and falling properly. There is a small amount of adjustment on the three or four screws holding the dashpot down. The way I do it is to slacken the screws off until you can twist the dashpot slightly, then move it left or right and with your finger on the dashpot button underneath the carb at the same time as pushing the dashpot "cylinder " down, adjust the cylinder until you can feel the piston rising and falling freely. BTW, have you got 3 or 4 screw carbs?

[clindayag1]

i'm still waiting on the new points and condenser. the pistons are rising and falling freely. i richened the mixture a little bit, checked float levels and reballanced the carbs. all of those things didnt really need adjustment. so i tried to drive the car out today and it didnt even make it around the block. whenever i give it some gas it would almost stall. even revving on neutral, it would stall. and the only way i could make it up the driveway and into the garage, i would have to pull the choke all the way and get it up to 1000+ rpm.

[Zs-ondabrain]

If you have too much ATF in there, the pistons won't rise like they are supposed to. Check the dipstick and make sure the fluid is between the 2 lines on the stick.

Also, check to make sure the needle is not sticking into the valve. If the pistons rise too fast (from lack of ATF) you'll suck in too much air and make the air/fuel ratio Lean.

[Bruce Palmer]

Pulling the choke on to get it to run says they are way lean. Run the nozzles full UP and then back them down 2 1/2 turns and see what that does.

Also it may be more busy work rhan anything, especially if you didn't change float levels, but with the nozzles at 2 1/2 turns down and after the car has idled for a bit, you can remove the domes and pistons and look down into the nozzle orifice and see where the static fuel level is in relation to the top of the top of the noxxle. You should see gas within a 1/16" of the top of the nozzle.

Be careful when reinstalling the dome and piston to center the needle without any bind on the nozzle.

[ChrisZ]

Did you take the carbs off for cleaning, if so have you checked for air leaks at the manifold gaskets ?

Chris