Chart505 Posted March 1, 2009 Share #1 Posted March 1, 2009 75 280. In process of cleaning up engine compartment, cleaned and re-wrapped all the wires running over the engine, etc. Mistakenly, I cranked the car up without the coil wire plugged into the coil. Shot sparks out pretty good! Now it runs kinda rought. I replaced cap, rotor, coil, plug wires (was planning to do that anyways), still have the miss. Pulled each plug wire separately to isolate, appears to be #2 cyl. What would make just that one not fire? Did I fry something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chart505 Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share #2 Posted March 1, 2009 Im not giving the experts much to go on here, I know. I would consider myself an average enthusiast, so I know it either spark or fuel. Injector wiring seems OK. Mainly wondering if you can fry any of the EI stuff by cranking w/o the coil wire in (the one to the dist).Also, why do they still have a ballast resitor on an EI car? Can I by pass this for a hotter spark. I have searched past posts and I guess you can but then why did they come from Datsun with the resistor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walter Moore Posted March 1, 2009 Share #3 Posted March 1, 2009 I doubt that you could have done anything to the ignition system that would only affect one cylinder. I also thought that the ballast resistor existed to protect the breaker points, so I do not know why a car with electronic ignition would have a resistor, unless it originally came with points and someone converted it after the fact. Actually, I don't know when Nissan went to electronic ignition. Unless proven otherwise, I would proceed with the assumption that your problems with the #2 cylinder are not related to cranking the engine with the coil wire disconnected.Now, I have seen people damage a cylinder head by plugging one of their spark plug wires into the coil and cranking the engine for an extended period of time trying to start the car... That isn't what you describe, so start looking at the cylinder with the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chart505 Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share #4 Posted March 1, 2009 not that stupid.... Gotta be either the control unit, plug or injector I would guess. The ballast is stock, not really sure why Nissan did it that way as is came stock w EI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sblake01 Posted March 1, 2009 Share #5 Posted March 1, 2009 Actually, I don't know when Nissan went to electronic ignition.Nissan went to EI 1974 with the 260Z. For whatever reason they kept the ballast resistor through the 77 models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chart505 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Share #6 Posted March 2, 2009 So can I remove it without damaging anything? Ignition is all stock except for Crane wires and Blaster 2 coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beandip Posted March 2, 2009 Share #7 Posted March 2, 2009 for starters why dont you just remove #2 plug wire and remove #3 . try #3 on the 2 plug and dist cap and 2 on the 3 cap port and see if the number 2 cylinder is still effected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sblake01 Posted March 2, 2009 Share #8 Posted March 2, 2009 So can I remove it without damaging anything? Ignition is all stock except for Crane wires and Blaster 2 coil.Not sure if I would do that. Nissan must have had a reason for setting it up that way. The ignition modules are different for the 75-77 models vs. the 78 and the ballast resistor is between the coil and the module. I wouldn't take the chance of possibly damaging something by removing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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