Rough idle in a 76 280z automatic

[saridout]

yeah, probably the number one question i get asked about my car is something like, "are you gonna get some cool spoilers and mods and such?" noooo, i'm pretty purist. i want it to be as close to original as possible, though i am considering some brighter instruments in the future.

[sblake01]

Im in the middle of converting all my connectors to those kind. They have a more snugg fit. Really good for the fuel injectors. I like them alot!

Yeah, they've got neoprene seals and stainless contacts. And whatever material they are made from doesn't become brittle over time. The ones that come off the old Volvos and BMWs in the junkyard are actually better than the brand new OEM Nissan type. Edited March 3, 2009 by sblake01

[Tim 76' 280Z]

I totally agree with you! The one thing that gets me about the 280z bumpers is that is cost way more for the replacement rubber then just to get a set of used 240 bumpers. Original is the way to go. A few mods are ok but no body mods. I dont like seeing people putting extra holes in a car for mods!

[saridout]

haha, that's the biggest item i'm missing. all the rubber bumper side pieces. i've got the one in the front center.

[Tim 76' 280Z]

Did you fix the problem with the car?

[sblake01]

You guys have 76s. The 75-76 bumper rubber is virtually impossible to find. The 77-78 bumper is getting scarcer but not quite as bad.

[Tim 76' 280Z]

I know and thats why when I get my body work done and a repaint im going with the 240 style bumpers. The rubber is so brittle a new piece falls off everyday.

[saridout]

not yet. i took out the air filter, and it didn't change anything, so i've ruled that out. i checked both of the sensors in the thermostat housing, and they're both pretty perfect, no corrosion at all. wiggling either one had no effect on how the car ran. in fact, i'm pretty sure that someone has already replaced the original connectors with the quick release type; thanks sblake01 for posting the info about them before i tried to pry the wire off of one. lucky coincidence O_o

are there any other sensors i should check before i move on to the next possible cause?

i wonder how difficult it would be to cast new rubber side pieces....

[saridout]

and here's an interesting development: i went out to drive the car to work this morning, and she was dead as a doornail. i'm positive i didn't leave any lights on, and i didn't have time to find out what was wrong. the battery is brand new O_o

[Tim 76' 280Z]

and here's an interesting development: i went out to drive the car to work this morning, and she was dead as a doornail. i'm positive i didn't leave any lights on, and i didn't have time to find out what was wrong. the battery is brand new O_o

Dude that sucks man! Hope you figure it out when you get home.

[saridout]

this may only be part of the problem, but i've discovered a serious vacuum leak on the bottom of the air duct that goes between the AFM and the throttle body. this one isn't mine, but you can see which duct it is. i've been looking through black dragon and i can't find a replacement. have any of yall replaced one of these? if so, where did you buy yours from?

also: my dead car problem turned out to be a short in the battery. it was only one month old!

[sblake01]

That would be a large part if not the whole problem. If yours looks anything like the one pictured, replace it and I'll bet your problems go away. Wrap it with duct or other tape as a temporary fix and see it your car runs better. Try Z Car source (don't mind the picture-it doesn't have a spout even though the late model boot is shown) and they also sell them used for less money, $25.99 vs. $53.11: http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/52492/catid/7590_8323/Air_Flow_Meter_Boot_to_Throttle_Body__75_4_77__without_spout____new

Edited March 10, 2009 by sblake01