Rear Toe Adjustment Cost

[Jeff G 78]

Spindle pin removal is a non-issue with the spindle pin puller. I do not recommend doing this without it. Loaner pullers are available here as well as on Hybridz for the cost of shipping.

I really wonder if the puller would have worked on mine. I tried everything with no luck. After banging away for a while, I tried to pull them out by stacking washers under the nuts, but it just stripped the threads right off the pins. Finally, I cut the pins off at each end of the knuckle and took the knuckles to work. I heated the crap out of the first one with a torch before using a commercial quality pneumatic/hydraulic press. It took every last bit of the press' power to push the pin out and when it did move, it sounded like a gun was fired each time the pin slipped a few mm. The shock from the movement kept making the push rods slip out of position. I skipped the heat on the second one with the same results. I'm pretty sure the lock pin had mushroomed the pins such that they were stuck tight. They were NOT rusty when they finally came out. I found when I tried to install the new pins that the control arms were a bit bent at the two rings, so they didn't line up with each other. I had to straighten them before I could re-assemble everything.

I think the puller would work on most, but I'm not so sure about mine. I wish I could have tried it though. It might have saved me LOTS of trouble.

[Marty Rogan]

Plates are a no brainer. Get some used ones and throw them on. Otherwise, don't worry about the alignment. I think it will straighten out with new plates and bushings.

Search this site and hybrid Z for info on the spindle pin puller. It didn't exist yet when I did mine, so I can't vouch for it, but many have had great success using it. A few people sell them and there are instructions online if you want to make your own. It looks pretty simple to make from what I remember.

If you don't already have it, download the FSM here http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html. You will need it for torque values and instructions on how to remove the lock pin in the center of the spindle pin.

I can vouch for the spindle pullers. I have done this job twice and I would NEVER attempt it without one. I averaged about 10 minute per pin as apposed to hours I have heard it takes without a puller.

Another neat trick I learned to stay away from the toxic fumes of burning the bushings out, is to take your electric dill and drill a million holes through the rubber part and then when its loose, pull out the rubber with pliers. I think its faster than burning too. Once its out you either clean out the rubber and leave the outer bushing collar if you are using PU bushings, or if you are going stock rubber, you need to carefully cut the collar with a hack saw and ply it out.

I'll agree that this is not a fun job, but with a puller and patience it is totally doable. You might as well clean and paint everything while you have it appart.

Good luck.

Marty

[mikewags]

These photos are long overdue.

http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a369/mikewags/Car/?action=view&current=IMG_0325.jpg

You can see from this photo, the Right rear tire is angled inwards quite a bit.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a369/mikewags/Car/IMG_0327.jpg

General rear suspension under-carriage shot.

I'll try to get some better photos, farther out perspective of how out of alignment that tire is. The mechanic told me the left was aiming outwards, but it really doesnt look like it is. See below:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a369/mikewags/Car/IMG_0322.jpg

Edited March 21, 2009 by mikewags

[mikewags]

I took a few more snapshots after pulling the car out of the garage.

Back View

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a369/mikewags/Car/IMG_0332.jpg

Over rear fender (you can see the tire tapering in a bit)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a369/mikewags/Car/IMG_0339.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a369/mikewags/Car/IMG_0339.jpg

If I decide to go at it myself - this will be my workspace :stupid:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a369/mikewags/Car/IMG_0338.jpg

Ain't she a beaut.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a369/mikewags/Car/IMG_0343.jpg

Edited March 21, 2009 by mikewags

[Jeff G 78]

Sorry, but I can't really tell anything from those pics. You really need to hold a long straight edge across the rear tire to see what it looks like. A 4' level or straight 2X4 would work. Hold the straight edge halfway up the tire so that it touches in two spots. Now you will see where the front of the board points. Does the front of the board point towards the car, straight ahead, or away from the car?

Other than a diff leak, the underbody looks pretty clean. You should be able to get everything apart easily.

[=Enigma=]

After banging away for a while, I tried to pull them out by stacking washers under the nuts, but it just stripped the threads right off the pins. Finally, I cut the pins off at each end of the knuckle and took the knuckles to work. I heated the crap out of the first one with a torch before using a commercial quality pneumatic/hydraulic press. It took every last bit of the press' power to push the pin out and when it did move, it sounded like a gun was fired each time the pin slipped a few mm.

The hammering method didn't work on mine even though the locking wedge came out without any problems and the pins were in excellent condition. The puller made child's play out of the job and the pins cam out like butta. If I hadn't ruined the threads on one end with the hammering method, I would have been able to re-use the pins.

Note that the puller engages with much more of the thread than the nut does so it has a better hold of the pin. Also, pulling the pin out would in theory stretch the pin, making it thinner over all, whereas using a press would expand the pin making removal more difficult.

When I installed the new pins and freshly re-plated locking wedges, I coated them with anti-seize to make sure that they would be easy to get out in the future.

[mikewags]

It's hard to get a good shot, especially with a small digital camera. Regardless, in person you can pretty easily tell its off.

Would it be worth changing the differential gasket out during this project? (Don't know if it would be easier while the rear suspension is out).

Edited March 21, 2009 by mikewags

[Jeff G 78]

To seal the diff cover, the mustache bar must be removed, so yes, it would be easier while you already have it off for the mustache bar bushings.

[Jeff G 78]

The hammering method didn't work on mine even though the locking wedge came out without any problems and the pins were in excellent condition. The puller made child's play out of the job and the pins cam out like butta. If I hadn't ruined the threads on one end with the hammering method, I would have been able to re-use the pins.

Note that the puller engages with much more of the thread than the nut does so it has a better hold of the pin. Also, pulling the pin out would in theory stretch the pin, making it thinner over all, whereas using a press would expand the pin making removal more difficult.

When I installed the new pins and freshly re-plated locking wedges, I coated them with anti-seize to make sure that they would be easy to get out in the future.

Yep, I agree completely with everything you said. Unfortunately, nobody had designed the puller yet and I was in a time crunch so I never took the time to come up with a puller myself.

[mikewags]

Would you guys says air tools are a necessity for this job? (Removal of the rear suspension).

I would imagine there will be some really tight bolts back there.

[Jeff G 78]

I'd say they are helpful, but not required for rear suspension work considering your Z looks to be rust free. There really aren't that many fasteners to do the job you are looking to do.

[John Coffey]

Would you guys says air tools are a necessity for this job?

If you're asking these kinds of questions, you're probably not ready for this job. Air tools are always better then hand tools, but hand tools can get the job done just fine.