Jeff G 78 Posted September 8, 2009 Share #85 Posted September 8, 2009 Do the TTT parts eliminate the rubber everywhere? I was looking at their TC rods, but I was afraid of what the impact loads would do to me and the body of the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmortensen Posted September 8, 2009 Share #86 Posted September 8, 2009 We're starting to hijack this thread, but adjustable front control arms is a tough way to adjust camber. If you only want to set it once, that's great and it's probably all you need, but if you want to go to an autox and change it and then change it back after, camber plates are much better. The problem is when you change the camber with the front control arm the toe changes. Jeff was asking how much change he could make to the length of the control arm before the tie rod was too short. That's a really good question and I think it's pretty likely that you can adjust TTT's LCA farther than you can SAFELY adjust the tie rod to match it. It might be a good idea to mark the inner, remove it, measure how much thread you have to play with, and then adjust the LCA accordingly.I think their rear control arm design is particularly bad. No triangulation, the outer part is a flat plate, the thing looks built to flex. I much prefer the A arm with a toe link to any attempt to make a different H arm to replace the stock unit. At first glance the TTT front control arm looks pretty good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moritz55 Posted September 21, 2009 Share #87 Posted September 21, 2009 (edited) To all .. This is a repost of my #73 posting in this thread. I included photos now of my finished job after ~150 miles or so of driving. 240z Stock Spec : Toe-In..........3/32"(out)....to....7/16"(in) Camber....20' +/-45' equals +1.08 degrees....to....-0.42 degrees ................................Driver.............Passenger Toe-In (Before)........ - 3/16" (out)......+ 5/16" (in) ..........(After)..........+ 1/16" (in)............0.0" Camber (Before)........- 0.3 degrees......- 1.0 degrees .............(After).......- 0.2 degrees.......- 0.3 degrees So .. my Rear End seems to be pretty much square. I just checked the distance betweens Front and Rear wheel center's and they are within 1/16" - 1/8" or so of each other. I also retorqued all my transverse link and vertical brace bolts to assure they have not changed - everything seems solid showing no signs of movement or distortion. Jon and team - thanks again for all the advice and encouragement. Many thanks... Edited September 24, 2009 by moritz55 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moritz55 Posted October 3, 2009 Share #88 Posted October 3, 2009 (edited) Well I took my 240z to the Alignment shop today! Refer to post #73 & #87 above.I finally installed new Coil Springs from Arizona Z last weekend on my front to bring the hieght back to stock level. So I took the car in for a front end alignment and also wanted the rear alignment data.So these are the alignment machine & technician's data:240z Stock Spec : Toe-In.......... +0.11 degrees ... to.... +0.23 degrees ........... with a total Toe In .. +0.23 degrees... to ... +0.46 degreesCamber....20' +/-45' equals +1.08 degrees....to....-0.42 degrees Alignment Machine/Technician................................Driver............ .Passenger Toe-In ............... +0.14 degrees ..... +0.17 degrees ............... total Toe In ... +0.31 degrees Camber ............... -0.7 degrees ...... -0.8 degreesAnyway - I am pleased with the Toe-In results, but my Camber is still more negative than I would like. I'll be installing new springs to get the rear closer to stock hieght. It won't be for a few months however as I'm waiting for Arizona Z to get some in stock. Edited October 3, 2009 by moritz55 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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