Rear Toe Adjustment Cost

[mikewags]

*BUMP*

I've been pretty sick lately, and haven't gotten the estimate back from the mechanic yet. I will let you guys know whats up with this issue in the next few days.

[mikewags]

*BUMP* UPDATE

I got the quote from the mechanic today, and I wasn't prepared for the cost of the repairs. See below.

Can I get some feedback on this estimate? On top of it, I will have to supply the Transverse Link Mounting Plates (which will be cheap) but altogether will bring this job up to about $1,000.

Edited March 20, 2009 by mikewags

[John Coffey]

The hours involved to remove the LCAs, R&R all the bushings on the LCAs, and reinstall the parts (7 hours) is reasonable.

[mikewags]

Doing some research - the parts are marked up a bit : although the labor is what's really costing me here.

I'm really starting to consider trying to do this myself, although I know i'd probably have to take the control arms to a machine shop with a hydraulic press to remove the bushings.

Would you suggest this job being do-able by someone with little rear suspension experience, but general overall technical/mechanical skills?

[Jeff G 78]

Unfortunately, yes, it sounds about right.

I would guess that over 75% of the people on this board do their own mechanical work for that very reason. Your Z car is worth about $5000 whether these parts are replaced or not. Most people on this board would rather spend $1000 buying the PARTS to replace the springs, shocks, swaybars and all the bushings on their Z than pay someone $1000 to replace $25 worth of parts. They would then sweat, swear, and donate blood to the knuckle gods so that they could afford to upgrade their precious cars. Not only do we save a lot of money, but we learn every little nuance about our cars. I have more money in my Z than I could ever get out and I've done 100% of the work myself. If I had to pay others to do the work, I'd have been better off buying a finished car. If you have any mechanical ability, some basic tools and a place to work, you could save lots of money and find a whole new appreciation for your car. To me, you're never really attached to a car unless you have scars from working on it.

In your case, even if you choose to start working on your own car right now, this probably isn't the best project to start with. Replacing the rear control arm bushings is the final exam of Z cars 101... Not the place to learn. :stupid:

[mikewags]

Well, this would be the first time i've taken the car into a shop for any work on the Z (except for when I took it to get the front tires aligned 6 + months ago).

I have done everything else myself:

(fuel filter, spark plugs, distributor/rotor/wires, filters, oil changes, starter, tail-lights, headlights, carpet install, wheel discs/calipers/shoes, dashboard removal and repair, and painting) to name a few. Of course none of these involved deep engine, tranny, or suspension work - and some are relatively "basic" fixes any Z-owner would expect to perform themselves.

I would rather spend half as much doing it myself, but I do realize this is a hard job. It's just hard to drop $800 of labor into $100 dollars worth of parts.

Edited March 21, 2009 by mikewags

[Jeff G 78]

I wrote the last note before I read your last reply. Knowing that you have done quite a bit of light mechanical work, I'm sure you can do this. It WILL be tough, but that's just how this job is. It's known in the Z world as the Right of Passage. Complete the spindle pin job and you can do anything. Do some research and go for it!

[mikewags]

Right of passage...

Jeff, you make this job sound like some sort of quest or journey. Am I knighted upon completion?

Thanks for the vote of confidence.

[Jeff G 78]

Hee hee. Do a search on any Z forum for spindle pins and you'll be enlightened. Every now and then, someone gets lucky, but 9 times out of 10 the pin is stuck in the knuckle and the four letter words start flying. It's not something you want to do with kids in the garage. You WILL get them done if you are mentally ready and you WILL be proud of yourself when you are done. Yes, you will be knighted upon completion of the quest. You can brag to the next guy in your shoes about how you faced the dragon and slayed it single handedly. Do your research and embark on your journey to enlightenment!

[mikewags]

Still have some thinking to do on this. Will need to borrow a good solid jack, stands, and ramps and will end up having the car boosted for a few weeks. The only thing keeping me from jumping on this project is the rear alignment issue. I need to be confident that replacing the bushings and spindle pins will fix the issue (if the plates aren't bent) - If they are bent I will need to address that by replacing them.

If anybody has any good walkthroughs or references for this job, please post them here or let me know. Thanks!

[Jeff G 78]

Plates are a no brainer. Get some used ones and throw them on. Otherwise, don't worry about the alignment. I think it will straighten out with new plates and bushings.

Search this site and hybrid Z for info on the spindle pin puller. It didn't exist yet when I did mine, so I can't vouch for it, but many have had great success using it. A few people sell them and there are instructions online if you want to make your own. It looks pretty simple to make from what I remember.

If you don't already have it, download the FSM here http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html. You will need it for torque values and instructions on how to remove the lock pin in the center of the spindle pin.

[=Enigma=]

There's a fair amount of work here, but nothing I would call complicated. If you're willing to drop the exhaust, you can drop the entire rear suspension and diff as one piece making disassembly all that easier. I wish I had done this on mine. Based on my experience, the hardest part was getting the old bushings out. I used the burn and cut method and the pyro in me was greatly satisfied. However I felt guilty later due to the pollution factor involved.

Spindle pin removal is a non-issue with the spindle pin puller. I do not recommend doing this without it. Loaner pullers are available here as well as on Hybridz for the cost of shipping.

If you do this yourself, you'll also have the opportunity to refurbish and refinish them for less than what you'd pay for someone else just to replace the bushings. In the end you will feel a great sense of satisfaction and accomplishment. Right of passage?...maybe.

To drop the whole thing as one piece:

1. Jack the rear of the car up by the diff

2. Support the rear of the car firmly on on jack stands. I use the rear frame rail extensions near the seat belt pockets. To make this more secure support the front of the car as well.

3. Remove both rear wheels

4. Remove the exhaust at the header or at a connection forward of the front diff mount (if available):

5. Support the entire suspension assembly by the diff with a floor jack

6. Unbolt propshaft from front of diff

7. Unhook e-brake lines from each wheel

8. Seperate flexible brake lines from hardlines at each wheel

9. Remove 4 bolts from front diff member

10. Remove 6 nuts from rear strut towers

11. Remove 4 bolts from transverse link mount brackets

12. Remove 2 nuts from rear diff mount (moustache bar)

13. Before droping the assy, tie the two struts together with rope or a toe down strap to prevent the strust from swinfing out and dinging your fender lip.

14. Slowly drop the whole assembly as one unit while steadying it

15. It's beer thirty!!!!

I still have those brackets if you need them. PM me.

See attached for a partial before and after.

Edited March 21, 2009 by =Enigma=