Rear Toe Adjustment Cost

[mikewags]

If you're asking these kinds of questions, you're probably not ready for this job. Air tools are always better then hand tools, but hand tools can get the job done just fine.

There is no doubt in my mind that this Job is over my head, but unless I happen to come across some money walking down the street; i doubt I will be able to have my guy do this.

I have loads of hand tools; and can borrow air tools & compressor if needed. I am just trying to prevent any unnecessary frustration by having everything readily accessible.

Once again, thanks for all the advice guys.

Edited March 23, 2009 by mikewags

[jmortensen]

I think you can fix this problem for all intents and purposes by just installing the camber adjusting bushings and the plates. That eliminates the spindle pin problems and makes it much more of a DIY project. Ideally you'd do the outers too, but if you're just looking to fix the toe issue I don't think it's necessary. There isn't a whole lot of rubber in the outers, so they are not going to be the source of a really bad toe problem.

[mikewags]

Update:

Got the car jacked up and off the ground. I took a look at the plates, they didn't seem bent or out of whack, although it's hard to tell while they are attached to the car. One thought might be that if the right plate was bent outwards (right) and that might cause the tire to be angled inwards.

Question - Posted earlier said the transverse link mounting plates can be unbolted and removed without touching the rest of the suspension. Will I have to support anything with a jack by removing these? I'd like to lay them flat and examine them up close before I do anything else.

The 4th photo is the suspect transverse link plate (right rear). If this plate were slightly angled left or right as opposed to DIRECTLY forward - would this effect the toe in? Ideally I can just take these off and compare them.

Edited March 24, 2009 by mikewags

[gnosez]

Have you thought to undo the rear sway bar and see if it was pulling the RCAs to one side?

[mikewags]

I am open to any and all suggestions that might help diagnose this.

I am pretty sure the left tire is fine though. It looks to be very straight. I am fairly confident that whatever the problem is - it's affecting the right rear tire only/mostly.

Edited March 24, 2009 by mikewags

[=Enigma=]

Question - Posted earlier said the transverse link mounting plates can be unbolted and removed without touching the rest of the suspension. Will I have to support anything with a jack by removing these? I'd like to lay them flat and examine them up close before I do anything else.

I don't see any reason why you couldn't do this as long as you support the the rear transverse link member until you re-mount the transverse link mounting brackets.

[jmortensen]

Coffey has found several struts with the spindle pin hole bored into the strut at an angle. If you're not seeing something bent I'm guessing that may be the issue. Like I said before, put the G Machine camber adjust bushings on the inners and if the uprights are OK, call it a day.

[mikewags]

Coffey has found several struts with the spindle pin hole bored into the strut at an angle. If you're not seeing something bent I'm guessing that may be the issue. Like I said before, put the G Machine camber adjust bushings on the inners and if the uprights are OK, call it a day.

Wouldn't this angled bore mean that this problem would of existed for as long as I had the car? I don't see what would could progressively get worse if that was the problem.

Where can I find these 'G Machine Camber Adjust Bushings' and can you give me any more information about them?

Thanks J,

[jmortensen]

Yes, that would be correct. There have been enough of these popping up that it wouldn't surprise me at all if it had gone unnoticed for 35 years...

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PSDC07A

[John Coffey]

Might as well make a full project and rebuild the rear suspension. 'Course, that will also lead to a full front suspension rebuild... :-)

Bushings, shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends, spindle pins, Simple Green, lots of rags, grease, and paint can all be bought for under $600 complete and then its just a few hours each week of your time and a couple bloody knuckles.

By summer, you'll be driving what will feel like a brand new car.

[John Coffey]

Wouldn't this angled bore mean that this problem would of existed for as long as I had the car? I don't see what would could progressively get worse if that was the problem.

Its not a common problem. I've found two or three rear struts with this problem and I've probably fondled over 100 rear struts so far. It might also not be a manufacturing problem, more of a race use, bending problem. One of the struts with the mis-alignned spindle pin holes came off my 1970 race car and probably had 25,000 track miles on it between the PO and I. The problem was masked by offset rear LCA bushings.

This would be a last thing to check if you're not able to get a good alignment.

[Jeff G 78]

Or just buy John's fancy adjustable LCAs. Your toe problem would be solved! Heck, it would still be cheaper than your original estimate.

Back to the cheap options... Would the delrin camber bushings be a good idea for a street car that isn't going to see regular inspections and teardowns?