Bushings (Which are best?)

[mikewags]

My rear control arm bushings will be replaced soon (either by myself or the mechanic). I want to be able to specify which kind should be put in.

From what I have read online, they make Rubber (original) and Polyurethane - the latter holding up much better than rubber in the long run. What are the ideal type of bushings to have installed to replace the 33+ year cracked/worn rubber bushings?

Input is appreciated. Thanks.

[TomoHawk]

You'll probably want different kinds of bushings in different places. Urethane can make the suspensing feel stiffer, and can tighten up the steering too, but I've read people here reporting that urethane bushings on the T/C rods were the likely cause of them breaking. so use rubber on that (for street use.) But it seems that urethane in the rear contol arms have good results, though a little stiffer. Runbber for things that need to flex more,liket he T/C rods, and urethane for things that flex less, like steering rack & control arms,

The rear bushings are a big &%%#$! pain to get out. One source says to use a press, another says to burn the rubber out, cut a slot then chisel... IMO, that's the tougher choice, and you need to have a mechanic you trust or one that knows Zs.

Edited March 21, 2009 by TomoHawk

[Zs-ondabrain]

All depends on the way you drive, the ride you like and the originality you'd like to keep or don't mind losing.

Obviously, Urethane IS stiffer than rubber, new rubber is stiffer than old rubber, and old rubber is squishy and likely decaying. Worn rubber can cause other parts to wear faster than normal. SO the final say so is up to you. Urethane is a great substitute and there is plenty of it for all around your whole suspension. Urethane is also typicaly cheaper than Real NOS rubber parts. let your budget do the talking.

And Tom is correct, don't use Urethane on the Torsion rods. There are reports of them snapping under hard steering, but those reports are typically from Racers and Cone dodgers.

Dave.

[DeesZ]

Does anyone package a complete kit of rubber bushings (like the urethane kits commonly seen for sale)? I'm looking for a set, but have not seen any after looking around for quite some time. (I have a '72.)

Thanks!

[ChrisZ]

Does anyone package a complete kit of rubber bushings (like the urethane kits commonly seen for sale)? I'm looking for a set, but have not seen any after looking around for quite some time. (I have a '72.)

Thanks!

I would like to know that aswell.

Chris

[mikewags]

I found these on EBAY. (Urethane)

http://cgi.ebay.com/DATSUN-240Z-280Z-Rear-Control-Arm-Bushings-14-301B_W0QQitemZ360129090195QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item360129090195&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A570%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

Here's the MSA page you can find the rubbers.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SSSC01C02

Does anyone know the difference between the INNER and OUTER control arm bushings? From the photos, I have seen what appear to be larger and smaller bushings that come in the set.

Edited March 21, 2009 by mikewags

[sugarworker]

I got my complete set from Black Dragon Auto for my my 1974 260Z. Just remember to use plenty of grease. You can order online at www.BlackDrangonAuto.com.

[Rich1]

I realize this thread is kind of old--and you may have already taken care of this--but I came across another source for bushings.

http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/catid/7461_7478/SUSPENSION_BUSHING_KITS

They have both rubber and urethane--rubber runs about $150 more.

[Skyblue280z]

I need to get sway bars and bushings for my car... hmm

[f1race79]

http://www.suspension.com/nissan240z.html

[zed2]

I recently purchase all the OEM rubber bushings for the 240Z. Here are the part numbers and quantities needed:

PART PART NUMBER QTY NEEDED

FRONT CNTRL ARM BUSH 54535-E4100 2

FRT TENSION ROD BUSH 54476-21000 4

FRT SWAY BAR END LINK BUSH 56112-W5000 8

FRT SWAY BAR TO FRAME BUSH 54617-21002 2

RACK BUSH/DRIVERS 54445-E4101 1

RACK BUSH/PASS 54444-E4101 1

FRONT STRUT BUMP STOP 54050-E4101 2

FRONT STRUT MOUNT 54320-E4100 2

REAR CONT ARM INNER BUSH(FRT) 55554-E4100 2

REAR CONT ARM INNER BUSH(REAR) 55555-E4100 2

REAR CONR ARM OUTER 55541-E4100 4

REAR CONR ARM OUTER SPINDLE 55540-N3701 2

REAR CONR ARM OUTER SPINDLE NUT 08912-8421A 4

DIFF MOUNT 55415-E4102 1

REAR STRUT BUMP STOP 54050-E4101 2

REAR STRUT MOUNT 54320-E4100 2

MUSTACHE BAR BUSHING 55476-N4300 2

STEERING COLUMN COUPLER 48073-78500 1

Keith

[jmortensen]

I think you're more likely to see TC rod failure due to stiff bushings with soft springs than with hard springs. The issue is that the bushings don't compress, so it puts a lot of bending load on the rod right where it has a turned down shoulder where the bushings sit. Bending load and square shoulder = bad. But the softer the springs, the more the suspension moves when it hits bumps, the more the TC rod gets worked. For example, if you had really really stiff springs and the suspension only moved 1", then the side forces on the TC rod would be a lot less than a stocker which can fairly easily blow through 5" of travel on one bump.

One option here is to put the urethane bushing in the front and a stock rubber bushing in the rear. The front one takes the braking loads, the rear is really just along for the ride, so putting the rubber in the rear increases the flexibility without affecting the performance under braking. The best solution for the TC rods is a rod end in my opinion, because it allows free motion with very little resistance.