john mcgarvie Posted March 22, 2009 Share #1 Posted March 22, 2009 OK i have a 5/72 240z not a matching numbers car i bought it for 500 and i have already put another 500 in it.I'm just wondering how far i can go and still be within the value.I'm not looking to git rid of it i just don't want to put 3000 into a car that will only be worth 1000. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigoak Posted March 22, 2009 Share #2 Posted March 22, 2009 Welcome to the world of Z's...Very little money in restoring as there are simply too many passable examples with "mild" rust out there.The value of any Z is totally dependant on 1) body (no rust); 2) interior; 3) mechanical...Mechanical is #3 as they are reasonably easy to fix and parts are plentiful (not so with bodies and interiors).You a 280Z hood on the car (happens from time to time). The pink interior most likely detracts from the value (unless Miss Piggy is in the market for a Z)...Other than that need more info on condition and upgrades if present. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john mcgarvie Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share #3 Posted March 22, 2009 So thats a 280 hood?That is a bad pic it is red. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonnyRock Posted March 22, 2009 Share #4 Posted March 22, 2009 (edited) So thats a 280 hood?That is a bad pic it is red.Yep. 280's have the hood vents. Your red interior doesn't add to the value, but al least it looks like the seats are in good shape. Looks like you've got a dash cap as well, which means a badly cracked dash usually.As a baseline I tend to say any car that's running is worth $500-1000. A run of the mill, decent Z, which yours could be with some work (hopefully not too much body filler & fiberglass on it already) is in the couple thousand range. So don't worry about throwing a couple more bucks into, you could easily come out on top in the end.Like Michael said, rust (body) is the biggest issue. Edited March 22, 2009 by JonnyRock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john mcgarvie Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share #5 Posted March 22, 2009 I am putting a new paint job on it i almost have it all to metal.I am not going back with the original color it was either a ugly yellow or brown.I am going with a blue.there are no repair panels.the rocker panels are good but the top of the fenders where you can see the bondo it looks like some one sat there fat arse and bent them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john mcgarvie Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share #6 Posted March 22, 2009 Dose bondo stick better to primer or metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Beck Posted March 22, 2009 Share #7 Posted March 22, 2009 Not at all uncommon to see some filler on the tops of the fenders. Just leaning on them with one's elbows will cause dents.If the fenders are solid - I'd pull them off, remove all the present filler - then get a good metal man to work them out as flat as possible first. Then I'd sand them on down and put an epoxy primer on them. Then finally a if needed a very thin layer of glaze/filler... and block the hell out of them.If your going to change the color - don't stop half way. Do the entire interior and the engine compartment. Pull the engine and do a first class job on the engine compartment. Pull all glass/chrome/stainless etc Do it once and do it right... That will add considerable value to the car if you use a Factory Color for that year. Do a half fast job with a surface repaint - and it will actually lower the value...Since your in one of the Eastern States - a clean, properly "refreshed" 240-Z even with a non-matching number engine - should sell for around $6K to $8K. But you'd have to do some major refreshing on the interior and of course the car would have to run out well.If everything on the car was "right" - even with an L28 and tasteful street mod's - in a year or two it could easily bring $12K - - HERE AGAIN Quality and Attention To Details matter A LOT.How do you know that it is a non numbers matching engine? Just want to make sure you understand that the engine serial numbers in these cars DO NOT match the VIN to begin with.FWIW,Carl B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john mcgarvie Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share #8 Posted March 22, 2009 Engine# L24 188589 what year do you think this engine is?vin# HLS30-84710The engine is supposed to be 107066 2393cc 150hp at 6000 rpmI just redid the top end and the engine runs good 175lbs of compression in each cylinder and Les than 20% leak down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Beck Posted March 22, 2009 Share #9 Posted March 22, 2009 Engine# L24 188589 what year do you think this engine is? Late 07/73 or more likely 08/73.FWIW,Carl B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john mcgarvie Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share #10 Posted March 22, 2009 That is good to know what have others bought and sold there Zs for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beandip Posted March 22, 2009 Share #11 Posted March 22, 2009 (edited) All that was said already I agree with. Your location will make a big difference in the value of your Z. How much you put into the car your self in the way of labor, if you do the job correctly, will help you when you sell the car. What I look at is what would you buy , that has the style and performance that a Z has? What would you have to spend for that car. Sure a Miata or Beamer will out perform and they are beautiful . However every time you drive to the market you see a couple of them. Plus if you are into your Z say 8K how far would that same money go toward the Meata or Beamer. . I paid $500.00 for my 240Z I have over 10X that in it plus 3yrs work. I did almost all the work my self. Estimated value 16K, could I sell it for that I don't know but this is the agreed upon value on my policy backed up with a appraisal. Edited March 22, 2009 by beandip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Beck Posted March 22, 2009 Share #12 Posted March 22, 2009 Dose bondo stick better to primer or metal.There are lots of conflicting opinions on that, and very few well structured long term scientific studies. Then you have about 1000 different makers and formulas for the generic "bondo" .. or plastic filler. I think the truth is it will stick to both epoxy primer and metal of either are properly prepared to begin with.The point is that a mass of plastic {or two part epoxy matrix fillers} will have a different thermo cycle time, than thin sheet-metal will. The mass of filler will chemically dry out -and it will cause the metal on the opposite side of the bondo - to condense moisture.If you have dug enough old bondo off cars sheetmetal - you'll see that the metal was rusting from the inside out under the bondo repairs. That is usually greatly reduced when you have a vapor barrier between the bare sheet-metal and the bondo.Also sealing that bondo from the sheet-metal, and allowing enough time before the final sealing coat of paint is put on top - will greatly reduce the possibility of the bondo drawing moisture from the air and bubbling up a year after the car is done...The above is only my opinion based on 40 years of refreshing/restoring cars..FWIW,Carl B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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