SPAL shaved door handle kit?

[supraman]

I have just bought a SPAL shaved door handle kit and was wondering if anyone has tried one yet or has any wiring tips on a 77 280Z.

The one I have is the 7 channel.

I'm just wiring to the doors and the rear hatch.

[Zs-ondabrain]

Good luck on the hatch. But yes, I've done these a few times. Just make sure to use relays if the kit did'nt come with them. Use no less than 16 gauge wiring and plastic grommets thru the sheet metal of the body and doors.

I personally use SPAL Power windows and door pop units.

Dave

[supraman]

Good luck on the hatch. But yes, I've done these a few times. Just make sure to use relays if the kit did'nt come with them. Use no less than 16 gauge wiring and plastic grommets thru the sheet metal of the body and doors.

I personally use SPAL Power windows and door pop units.

Dave

Thanks for responding, Thats a start.

Plasic grommets, check!

No less than 16 gauge wire, check!

I have a top notch 40 amp relay, check!

I assume that the rear hatch is a real PITA?

I have no key for it and if i shut it, getting it open again by hand is already a PITA.

Which way is the best way to wire this SPAL kit?

Positive, negative, or reverse polarity?

I'm a little confused on the difference between the 2 (+ and -).

Does the polarity just change the pushing or pulling direction of the door solenoid?

And if it does, then the reverse polarity wiring would go both directions correct?

Just making an educated guess here.

One more....

Do I use a relay for each door,the hatch, and for the main power to reciever for a total of 4 relays, or just 1, for the main power to the reciever?

[Zs-ondabrain]

All depends on how you want it to operate.

If you want the doors to open seperately, like most people do, then you'll want one relay for each door.

And you'll obviously want the hatch to pop seperate of the doors, so there's another relay. I'm guessing (by doing a little research) that the unit you have does not have built in relays. If this is true, then you will definately need those relays.

The rear hatch IS a P.I.T.A. and some enginuity on your part is definately a requirement.

Here's a thread I did a while ago about what I did in my own Z's

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32047

Just follow the directions that came with the "Shaved" kit and you should be fine. I personally use 12 gauge power wire to the relays, a 12 gauge ground wire and good solid connections. Don't forget to attach the "Outside switch" into the system, just in case you ever lose the remotes or the batteries die. I'll be putting mine in the upper firewall area, aimed for inside the wheel-well of the front left tire. (out of site, out of mine)

As for (+ or -) if I remember correctly, the poppers don't care about polarity, power makes them pull.

Dave.

[supraman]

Thanks again, that's very usefull info.

I have a roll of 12 and 10 gauge wire that I'm going to use.

The reciever operates the doors on seperate channels ex(1 driver-2 passenger) with a 4 button remote. The remote's have the different channels on them for popping one door at a time.

The instructions I have say nothing of relays from the reciever, other than if you want to integrate your power windows or put in a electric exterior switch.

I was actually planning on doing away with the swith and installing a manual popper for a fail safe.

That will take care of the dead battery and lost remote problem all in one shot.

So even with no power, I could get in.

What about this!:bulb:

A manual popper for the rear hatch! No wiring and could still shave off the OEM hatch button. That will save a relay, all that wiring, and a solenoid too.

Cool, that kills a few birds with one stone and under the rear bumper would be the last place anyone would look for a manual popper.

Sweet!

[Zs-ondabrain]

Then maybe it Does have internal relays.

My 260Z will have....

Shaved door handles with 35 lb actuators

Flat hidden push buttons on each door (to open them)

Shaved hatch lock with 15 lb popper

Electric hood pop with Linear actuators to lift it.

Spal power windows

full alarm with auto start (custom choke system for the S.U's and nuetral safety switch)

Custom Dash with a Pioneer double din AVIC-F900BT Touch-screen (DVD/CD/XM/AM/FM/Ipod/SD)

Custom Door pods

Kick panel pods

2) 10" JL Audio subs in a Custom Spare tire well enclosure -OR- Corner enclosures

Strut tower pods for the 4x6's

1) 4ch amp for the 6 or 8 speakers and 1) Mono amp for the subs

LED taillights and front marker lights and custom "Z" sidemarkers

LED interior lighting

Autometer white face gauges w/ LED illumination

Rebuilt motor and 4-speed trans with short shifter

R-200 LSD

Full Energy SUspension Urethane kit

KYB struts and Eibach PR springs

TC kit and 25mm front w/19mm rear sway bars

XENON urethane front spoiler

New seats, carpet kit, and Paint.

It's obviously taking longer than planned but business has been good and I've had no time to work on it. Not sure on the tires and wheels though, probably 17x9s with 245/45 or 40's.

Dave

[supraman]

I found the link! No wonder I was having trouble finding this, my kit is the newest SPAL USA kit out right now!:stupid:

All shaved door handle folk's looking for wiring info look here!

This link is for the SPAL kits but most kits without internal relays work the same from what I understand, and the link has printable color diagrams galore!

Show's how to wire up the relay's, power door's, power lock's, etc.

http://www.spal-usa.com/faq/faq_technical.html

Edited March 29, 2009 by supraman

[supraman]

Then maybe it Does have internal relays.

My 260Z will have....

Shaved door handles with 35 lb actuators

Flat hidden push buttons on each door (to open them)

Shaved hatch lock with 15 lb popper

Electric hood pop with Linear actuators to lift it.

Spal power windows

full alarm with auto start (custom choke system for the S.U's and nuetral safety switch)

Custom Dash with a Pioneer double din AVIC-F900BT Touch-screen (DVD/CD/XM/AM/FM/Ipod/SD)

Custom Door pods

Kick panel pods

2) 10" JL Audio subs in a Custom Spare tire well enclosure -OR- Corner enclosures

Strut tower pods for the 4x6's

1) 4ch amp for the 6 or 8 speakers and 1) Mono amp for the subs

LED taillights and front marker lights and custom "Z" sidemarkers

LED interior lighting

Autometer white face gauges w/ LED illumination

Rebuilt motor and 4-speed trans with short shifter

R-200 LSD

Full Energy SUspension Urethane kit

KYB struts and Eibach PR springs

TC kit and 25mm front w/19mm rear sway bars

XENON urethane front spoiler

New seats, carpet kit, and Paint.

It's obviously taking longer than planned but business has been good and I've had no time to work on it. Not sure on the tires and wheels though, probably 17x9s with 245/45 or 40's.

Dave

Sick, just plain sick!

I have similar ideas, just repainting the interoir panels black with silver metal flake and clearcoating.

Custom door panels, nothing too off the wall just old skool techniques and probably going black and silver 2 tone.

Blue led interior lighting.

I have a good set of MSA lowering springs.

MSA type 3 front bumper.

MSA type 2 skirts and rear bumper.

Already shaved the headlight panels into the fenders for a stream line look.

Made a custom blue base coat that includes tons of blue pearl and silver flake for the body.

Black pearl hood.

new carpet.

Re-doing seats.

Alternator swap is done along with a set of chrome SU's on chrome manifolds.

Just need to polish the cam cover to match it.

Big Chrome breather filter, and billet fuel filters.

Saw a sweet set of 16'' rims on ebay for the 280Z for 3-400$ shipped.

The Ignitor ignition is on the list too.

Sway bars and srtut bars, with new urethane kit for suspension a must.

A sun-roof/moon-roof!

Something you don't see to often in a classic Z but looks good, probably go with an RX-7 style moon-roof but made with tinted glass.

Stereo will be a 3-4'' lcd, usb,sd,mp3 media machine from bose or sony, with the MSA rear speaker panel(2 bose 6x9'' 3 way), replace factory panel speakers with bose of the same size (3 way), and a set of tweeters in the door panels up front.

And a sweet set of amps in the back, with blue led's on them and a gun- metal finish or silver base color.

Nothing too loud and bass filled, but a nice system to rock out with, thats fairly loud and sounds awesome.

I have some interoir skills for sure and can sew pretty good, learned on my own, keep a look out for future ''how to diy'' in the interior and body forum's

on here.

Have some pretty cool ideas, but I want to unleash them when there done, hoping people will get good results, but don't ''copy'' mine.

Thanks again for the help it sent me in the right direction for sure!

[supraman]

Thanks for responding, Thats a start.

Plasic grommets, check!

No less than 16 gauge wire, check!

I have a top notch 40 amp relay, check!

I assume that the rear hatch is a real PITA?

I have no key for it and if i shut it, getting it open again by hand is already a PITA.

Which way is the best way to wire this SPAL kit?

Positive, negative, or reverse polarity?

I'm a little confused on the difference between the 2 (+ and -).

Does the polarity just change the pushing or pulling direction of the door solenoid?

And if it does, then the reverse polarity wiring would go both directions correct?

Just making an educated guess here.

One more....

Do I use a relay for each door,the hatch, and for the main power to reciever for a total of 4 relays, or just 1, for the main power to the reciever?

Great! No more confusion!:laugh:

I got it now.:bulb:

My kit has internal relay's built in for channel's 1 and 2 , so there are no relay's needed for the doors at all.

Relay's are only used for channels 3-7 only, or for the emergency switch.

You do have to power both harnesses off the same power wire, and ground the molex harness with it's ground wire(black wire on molex connector harness) not the little black wire coming directly out of the reciever either! That's the antenna! :stupid:

The reciever has 5 spade connectors (channel's 1, 2 ,and 12VDC connection- the other two are dead) and a seperate molex connector with its own electrical harness.

The spade connectors are wired using the positive output method.(channels 1& 2 with the 12VDC) Tap molex power wire into spade connector power wire, then run to battery. Ground from molex harness, and Wire up solenoid's to channels 1 and 2. done! No relay's needed.

The molex connector runs off a negative output wiring to the battery, and the reverse polarity output wiring is for power windows, power doors, etc. into the reciever using channels 3-7!

Then you add relay's, because relay's for channel's 3-7 are NOT built in to the reciever.

The kit even comes with 6 feet of extra 10 gauge wire too.

Just use the left over spade connection wires ( large 10 gauge wires, one is orange the other purple) They are used for absolutely nothing anyway so why not use good wire eh!?

I hope this help's anyone else that started out as confused as I was!

Big thank's to Dave for getting me started in the ball park!

[supraman]

Any one out there with finished kit's or info to add.

Maybe pic's we can see?

[Zs-ondabrain]

Here's a couple pics for ya, cause they're related to the subject..

Couple Power window shots, power door locks, rear hatch pop, power window switch in center console, and Cold Cathode tube under the dash (computer tower lights, 12volts and only 0.5 amps!!)

Dave.

Edited March 30, 2009 by Zs-ondabrain

[supraman]

Dave,

Thank's for the help and the pic's I have this thing beat now.

I'm still working on it but progress is good and I feel like

I actually know what i'm doing now.

I'm also keeping my manual window's and slapping on chrome crank's.

I think i figured out the best way to mount the solenoid too.

I'm going to mount them towards the bottom of the door and have them pull the same latch inside the door, that the interior handle pull's.

The bar and the cable will be running close to each other , but the same direction , with little to snag on when you pull the interior handle.

I'll figure it out.

I'll have to post something up with my own pic's and how to.

Edited April 11, 2009 by supraman