Just took a photo of my panel with the lid of the paint i chose so far, what do you gents say.

Chris

Arne,

I just spent an hour reading your blog ! great read btw!

I just hope my project comes along as nicley as yours;)

Just took a photo of my panel with the lid of the paint i chose so far, what do you gents say.

Chris

There should be a satin clear coat that is compatible with the paint you chose. Just try to do like Arne did and spray light, dry coats to emulate the best look. I think an even consistant finish is just as important as the color choice when painting the rear panels. Holding the spray can as far as possible, and spraying light coats & on the dry side is the way to do this.

There is one thing I would like to mention about the paint on the NOS grill that I took a pic of. I have no personal experience and have not seen other NOS pieces painted this color by Nissan that have been stored away from natural light, but there seems to be a difference in my observation from what others have said. There is a fair amount of gloss that can be seen in the pic and pronounced by the camera flash. This is the way this part actually looks. I would call it a "sheen" and not a "gloss". It is like the sheen you would see on velvet. I would not describe the paint color as being flat at all. I believe the original paint dulled fairly quickly when exposed to sunlight.

Edited March 30, 200916 yr by geezer
spelling

I may get some slack for saying this....... But here it gose......

I have found that one of the best and lasting things for rattle can and non gloss matt black is the paint they sell for BBQ grills. It's made for a very high heat and fights rust. Plus it's one of the few matt paints that I have found that wont gloss or shine when you scrub on it. Also, it dosnt chalk up over time unlike other matt blacks on the market.

Just what I have found....

Yes, but matte black is too dark. The original gray was much lighter than that.

I recently had my tail light finisher and grill done in Hot Rod Black. I liked it when I saw it on a motorcyle tank. It seems to not have a problem being altered by waxes(I tested that first). Its probably not correct, but it matches the finish on the louvers, and it doesn't get screwed up by wax. I think I'll have the black in my old wheels redone to match it.

In doubt there is always Kats web site and is fantastic pictures :

Katsuhiko Endo

1970 DATSUN 240Z

HLS30-02156 (03/70)

L24-005562

1970 FAIRLADY Z432

PS30-00088 (01/70)

S20-000884

JAPAN

http://www.geocities.jp/datsunz903

In doubt there is always Kats web site and is fantastic pictures

Maybe it's just the light, but the tail panel on the Z-432 looks a couple shades darker than the one on the 240Z. I wonder if this is "correct", a trick of light, or just what was available.

I would say that you want a satin finish as opposed to a flat for the rear panel. if using a spray can you can use semi gloss and just spray light coats from further away to replicate the satin semi-rough texture and finish. Just make sure you use real light coats.

Chris,

I do not know if these photographs help, but they are of a NOS grille and rear light finisher for a late UK model (1978) 260Z. They have been kept boxed, so should not have faded from the factory finish. The shade of satin grey paint used appears to be the same on the grille and tail light finisher. I can email the photographs to you direct if you wish.

Those are perfect photos of the color!!!!

I agree, on my screen the pictures posted by jerz are very accurate.