switchable fuel pump

[supraman]

Ok, I've done a bunch of searching with no results on exactly what i'm trying to do.

I want to run my new fuel pump off the battery and to an interoir switch.

I have plenty of 10 gauge and 12 gauge wire, a few 30 amp inline fuse boxes, 30 amp fuses, a 40 amp 4 peg relay, several led 30 amp switches, and

1 new low pressure fuel pump.

Do I need anything else?

I just need to know the order of the wiring.

Do I just go from the battery, to the fuse, then relay, switch, then out to fuel pump?

I figure, if it's on a switch, then I could cut it from power at any time in the case of an emergency.

[beandip]

You are on the right track , however you don't need a 30amp fuse, a 20 amp is plenty. Your Z is most likely prewired for a electric pump. Not sure about the '70, but from '71 on everyone I have seen is. Just follow the wiring for the sending unit at the gas tank up toward the rear of the Z. Look for the wires wrapped in blue tape. Green is the hot Black ground.

If you still wish to have a manual switch though I recommend a pressure switch also . I added mine at the oil pressure sending unit. I bought a tee that the oil sender screws into and the other end a male goes into the engine block. A pressure switch goes in the third opening of the tee. Mind activates at 5lbs pressure. It has two spade connectors on it and I simply wired the pressure switch into the loop on the hot side of the circuit. This way when there is a loss of oil pressure the fuel pump stops pumping. The engine easily will start on the gas in the carbs, this will not work on a injected engine though. With carbs it is great. It has saved me from a fire once so far, so I swear by this method. Also another safety method is a inertia switch. Ford uses them on there pickup's. In a crash it will open the circuit stopping the flow. Gary

[supraman]

You are on the right track , however you don't need a 30amp fuse, a 20 amp is plenty. Your Z is most likely prewired for a electric pump. Not sure about the '70, but from '71 on everyone I have seen is. Just follow the wiring for the sending unit at the gas tank up toward the rear of the Z. Look for the wires wrapped in blue tape. Green is the hot Black ground.

If you still wish to have a manual switch though I recommend a pressure switch also . I added mine at the oil pressure sending unit. I bought a tee that the oil sender screws into and the other end a male goes into the engine block. A pressure switch goes in the third opening of the tee. Mind activates at 5lbs pressure. It has two spade connectors on it and I simply wired the pressure switch into the loop on the hot side of the circuit. This way when there is a loss of oil pressure the fuel pump stops pumping. The engine easily will start on the gas in the carbs, this will not work on a injected engine though. With carbs it is great. It has saved me from a fire once so far, so I swear by this method. Also another safety method is a inertia switch. Ford uses them on there pickup's. In a crash it will open the circuit stopping the flow. Gary

Gary,

Your right my 77 280Z is already wired up for the electric fuel pump, but there is a problem. The stock fuel pump is not sounding off when I turn power to the car and not sending gas to my carbs.

It's also high pressure. A regulator was installed with a seperate gauge to see the psi after it in the line. The only thing the previous owner did right was the regulator!

So I have a new electric low pressure pump instead. (5-9 psi)

Now,

hooking this to the existing fuel lines, I think I can figure out.

The Fuel pump has been moved in a easy access area, about 4'' below where the wiring goes up into the body from the pump, with custom mounting plate.

When I bought this car it was already going through the EFI to carb swap(Weber DGV's) and I trashed the ECU. (Is that my problem? Did I need the ECU?)

The electrical was re-done by the first owner also, alternator swap was done, and fog lights were done, and looks like coil ,etc. was redone.

So I didn't see much else the ECU was doing me? What else was left on the ECU after a swap from EFI anyway's? The guy I bought it from told me I didn't need it any more.

So I traded the left overs for a set of chrome, rebuilt SU's(4 bolt round top)!

The motor fire's good, turn's great, but no fuel:cry: After all the work of getting those carb's in and learning all that! I had a buddy spray a few shot's of starter fluid in the carb's , the 280 fired right up so I know i'm just lacking fuel. Plus no fuel in the line's either.

So how much did the setup you put together end up costing you?(- fuel pump)

Do you remeber the size of the T?

[thrustnut]

Hey Supraman, I just did all this on my Z. When I removed the EFI stuff, there is a black (I think) plug under the grivers side dash. What i did to get it going at first was jump power from the switched 12V wire to the power in for the pump (on the same plug). Check out your wiring diagram for pin location. What I did as a permanent fix is what you are saying, I have a fuse box I installed to run my ignition system, electric fan, and fuel pump directly off my battery bolted to the firewall. I am running a 20A fuse to a lighted switch in the console to a relay in the back (which the PO installed to a keyed fuel cut off switch) which then runs power down to the pump. All my parts (switch, relay, ect) where allready there, so all it cost me was the Carter low press fuel pump from Ebay, my trusty multimeter and about two hours of my time. I can send you some pics of my set-up if you want. BTW im running an Arizona Z set up with a Carter 4 BBL...same idea.