Photos of T/C Box Needed

[stevef1972z]

As a lot of you know I have decided to go ahead and try and fix the rust on my 72. In the photos of everyone doing rust repair, the Bad Dog or rails from Charlie are always already welded in. My Bad Dog rails do not reach up to the T/C mount on the frame. I need a shot or two of that area so I can get an idea on what I need to rebuild from the T/C mount back to the area that the Bad Dog rail will reach. The driver side of my car is still there, and I dont want to cut the good to see how it is put together, the passenger side is gone.

If you have a good shot of the area can you post or send to my email please. Something that shows the T/C box, or if you replaced it without doing the rest of the rail, what that looked like done.

Thanks.

Steve

[=Enigma=]

Hey I just posted some shots of of my underbody after stripping it. There are some good clear shots of the T/C box in there. Check it out.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/techn0freq/sets/72157616150623547/

[stevef1972z]

Thanks those will help some!

[geezer]

Here's a few shots of a NOS piece that will give you an idea how to reconstruct it, if you fabricate your own.

[stevef1972z]

Ron,

Thank you very helpful. On the last pic, it looks like there is a gap at the mount, with brackets inside that are spot welded. Is that the case? Mine are shot and the PO had been in the area and I cant really tell what is supposed to go there. These are extremely helpful!!

[geezer]

Ron,

Thank you very helpful. On the last pic, it looks like there is a gap at the mount, with brackets inside that are spot welded. Is that the case? Mine are shot and the PO had been in the area and I cant really tell what is supposed to go there. These are extremely helpful!!

Those pics were passed on to me from an old Ebay ad. Being confronted with the same rust damage as you in this area, I studied the construction of the part and determined that the bracket spotwelded inside that you noted, is there for a dual purpose. Just my opinion, but I believe it was used as an assembly aid in order to locate the Tension Control Rod Bracket properly and also allow for corrections if needed by adjusting the jig it was spotwelded in, before the bracket was wire welded on. The design of this part was the cause of water being allowed in to be trapped, causing rust and premature failure. I would like to know if there was any sealer applied at the factory in this location in an attempt to keep water out or not?

[zKars]

I am co-incidently doing the same repair. Must be "fix the frame rails" week.

I too have a bad passenger side, good driver side. Stupid leaking batteries, time and water entrappment. Grr....

As an aid to re-positioning the T/C mounting cup in the "right" place, I am planning on temporarily re-installing the K-member, control arms and T/C rods . With the driver side T/C mount still in the stock position, it should help to place the passenger side mount in exactly the right spot. If you do this as well, remember to measure carefully to get the K member square to the frame first. Maybe measure from front to the rear suspension on both sides to a nice reference point to get the distances the same.

Did you have to make a new pocket in the new frame rail where the k-member mounts? I made two, (don't ask why...) and could make another in an hour (practice makes perfect) or so if you need one!

Hope this helps! Good luck with the repair. Ain't fabricatin' and weldin' fun?

Jim

Edited April 5, 2009 by zKars
forgot to add something.

[stevef1972z]

Ron I agree, with the gap in the NOS part it was designed to rust with the ability to just hold water.

Jim thanks for the offer, but I am bending metal this weekend, it will be a long weekend, and then some more time getting it all laid back up and remeasured.

This is what I like about this board, knowledge and advice supported by photos of NOS to DIY a great blend for everyone!!! You guys rock!