NGK spark plug number

[Curtis240Z]

For the same price I use the V-Power alternative (BPR6EV) for better ignitability.

[sblake01]

Don't be fooled by the hype. At best, the V-Power will last longer but that's about all. They don't perform any better.

[DatsunZsRule]

Technically speaking, Jared, if you're running BP6ES with a .040 gap on a 280Z, you're using the wrong plugs with the wrong gap.

What Who said I run those??? I use the factory recommended plugs for my 280Z which is B6ES-11

the BP6ES I listed for "guy_geo" for HIS 1972 240Z which is the correct plug for HIS Z.

doradox,

Thats your choice but I've been using a very light coat of anti-seize on the threads only of my plugs for yrs. on all my vehicles with no issues or problems what so ever. I've seen the type that don't believe in putting anything like a anti-seize lube on there threads and have damaged there threads trying to remove the plug and then they have a real expense on there hands so my opinion is You might want to rethink about not using the anti-seize but you can do whatever you want and I'll do the same which has served me well on all my vehicle tune ups over the yrs.

Edited April 12, 2009 by DatsunZsRule

[preith]

While on the subject of spark plugs, what would be your plug and gap recommendation for the following motor: L28 1mm over with Mn47 head (280Z valves, unshrouded, ported/polished, etc. and appr. 11.2:1 compression), .520 lift Rebello cam, and Electromotive direct ignition system. Thanks.

It doesn't look like anyone touched on the temperature of the plug. In your case with that much compression you'll be better off with something a bit cooler, most likely a BR7ES or BR8ES. I run the 8 with 11.9:1, .560lift cam, and an Electromotive ignition.

As stated in another post, "R" stands for resistor. The Electromotive ignition actually requires more resistance than a traditional setup, including higher resistance plug wires than the "ultra-low" stuff marketed nowadays, 1-2K ohms per foor IIRC.

[240jetjoc]

Thanks for your response, Philip. That was the type of insight I was looking for. I'll probably start with the BR7ES.

[doradox]

doradox,

Thats your choice but I've been using a very light coat of anti-seize on the threads only of my plugs for yrs. on all my vehicles with no issues or problems what so ever. I've seen the type that don't believe in putting anything like a anti-seize lube on there threads and have damaged there threads trying to remove the plug and then they have a real expense on there hands so my opinion is You might want to rethink about not using the anti-seize but you can do whatever you want and I'll do the same which has served me well on all my vehicle tune ups over the yrs.

I think I'll side with the plug manufacturers and the vehicle OEMs on this one. Those damaged threads usually come from over torquing, dirty threads, or trying to remove plugs from a hot engine, and not from lack of lube. But if that's what you need to do who am I to say.

Steve

[sblake01]

What Who said I run those??? I use the factory recommended plugs for my 280Z which is B6ES-11

the BP6ES I listed for "guy_geo" for HIS 1972 240Z which is the correct plug for HIS Z.

doradox,

Thats your choice but I've been using a very light coat of anti-seize on the threads only of my plugs for yrs. on all my vehicles with no issues or problems what so ever. I've seen the type that don't believe in putting anything like a anti-seize lube on there threads and have damaged there threads trying to remove the plug and then they have a real expense on there hands so my opinion is You might want to rethink about not using the anti-seize but you can do whatever you want and I'll do the same which has served me well on all my vehicle tune ups over the yrs.

Well, I did say 'if'. As far as the anti-sieze, I don't do that but I do put a little turbine oil on the brush I use to clean the openings. Edited April 12, 2009 by sblake01

[Jeff G 78]

I have been told to be very careful with anti-seize on spark plugs. The plugs need to have a good ground path to the head and anti-seize acts as an insulator. It can and will cause misfires. We had a Viper in our shop that was running like crap. Turned out to be anti-seize on the plugs. Once they were removed and everything was cleaned, the car ran very well.

[DatsunZsRule]

Well what can I say, it's one of those touchy subjects again where everyone has there own opinion about it. I should have known that and not even mentioned it for that reason. I am very careful with it and only put a very light coating of it on the threads. I don't disagree that if you go nuts with it that it can create issues but I know better than to do that. Like I've said I've been using just a very light coat of it on the threads for yrs. with no problems at all. None of my vehicles miss a beat when they are idling and driving so If it helps the threads and hasn't caused any issues for me then I plan to continue doing it the same way I have been. Just my two cents.

[Jeff G 78]

I agree and do use it myself, I just go lightly and keep it off of the crush washer so there is a good ground path. I was just throwing it out there because too many people think more is better.

[doradox]

NGK has this to say about anti-seize:

http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/contentfiles/pdf/NGKSP-0907-1R-Anti-SeizeonSparkPlugs.pdf

Note they suggest that one use torque ANGLE if using anti-seize on a non plated, i.e. not NGK, plug. This makes sense from an engineering standpoint as this takes thread friction out of the equation.

I tend to go with the engineers that design and test the product and give a reason based on sound engineering principles for following their suggestions.

Steve

[sblake01]

So, Jared, it would appear that you are the one that needs to do some re thinking. These plugs are actually designed to be used on aluminum heads w/o the use of anti sieze according to the people that make them. Do what you want but I'm afraid in this case you're wrong.