I understand it's something that may not be needed on these plugs but at the same time, I don't believe a half a drop of anti seize wiped sparingly on the tip of the plug threads to help them thread in nice and help them remove nicer is going to cause the plugs to blow out. If you think that your nuts. Causing damage by over torquing plugs is caused NOT by using a tiny bit of lube on the threads but by the knucle head operating the wrench with no common sence who thinks he has to go ape $^!# with the wrench.

A tiny bit of lube for the threads is not going to hurt anything for god sake. I've never had damaged threads or ever broken a plug from using a tiny bit of ant-seize lube on the threads. If used correctly, it's not going to effect the way it runs either. If that were true then all my cars would run like $^!# which they don't. My Z and daily driver both run like a million bucks not to mention I haven't had a complaint from any customers I've done at work so I don't plan on changing the way I do it. My theory is if it's been working good for me through all the yrs. I've done it, I'll stick with it. Those of you that don't believe in it, Fine then dont use it then. Like I stated before if used correctly, It's really just a matter of opinion so lets just drop it. Life is too short to argue over such bullshit as this. If you feel the need to respond again thats fine but I've voiced my opinion on the subject here and now I'm done.

You're a 'hard head'.

BP6ES with a .040 gap.

They should be pregapped but I always double check mine. Couple times I had 1 or two not properly gapped. Doesn't take much for them to get bumped during shipping which can mess up the gap. Also I recommend a light coat of anti-seize on the threads.

 

Okay but since i have a Schneider 274F camshaft will the gap on the NGK BP6ES be different or will it still be .040??

 

http://schneidercams.com/274FL6.aspx

Tony D's response would be funny for one time.

Okay but since i have a Schneider 274F camshaft will the gap on the NGK BP6ES be different or will it still be .040??

 

http://schneidercams.com/274FL6.aspx

Gap depends mostly on ignition system.  Not cam shaft.

Tony D's response would be funny for one time.

Probably.  But you never get just one.  He has boundary issues.

If running a pertronix and the stock coil on a carbed L28E is the BP6ES-11 the right plug or should I run the smaller gap on the BP6ES?

Love that we're all so dorky on this stuff. Not that this will have me pulling the wheels at a green light, but would like to get thoughts on best plug match. Setup is 280 block, 280zx distributor, standard coil, SU's. 

The ZX cap is bigger so they run a different plug than the stock ones. I have the ZX distributor and a Crane Ps20 coil, I think it's 1.5 OHMs, and use the NGK B6ES-11 and have them gapped at .042 if I remember right. Somewhere around .040 but not over .043.

 

man I was way off. 

BPR5ES-11 gapped at .044

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/part-finder

Is the increased gap for the EFI cars a function of injector, distributor, and coil? Does it take all 3 before you bump up the gap? Other posts say to run the -11 once you move away from points, but they seem to imply full EFI.

Does it really matter?

I think its mainly a function of the coil and the voltage. points running at only 8v, there's not enough energy to jump the gap at peak cylinder pressure. 

start at 1.1mm, and if you don't misfire anywhere in the rpm range, leave it there and be happy.

if you misfire around peak torque, close the gap a bit until the misfire goes away, then leave it and be happy. 

Edited March 2, 20214 yr by jonbill