It still sounds like dieseling to me. If there was a wiring issue that kept voltage going to the coil the car would run a lot longer than 5 or 10 seconds. The float bowls on a typical car hold enough gas for the car to idle at least a minute or more.

Cars that diesel typically are running rich, and the fuel octane is too low.

If the engine has a lot of miles on it and has a carbon buildup in the chambers that contributes to the problem as well.

I had several mid-80's Chevys with V8's and that stupid electronic carburetor GM made, that would run-on for several minutes if we put regular gas in the tank. One of them was so bad that it would keep running even with the transmission in drive.:mad:

I guess you could test the theory by undoing your wiring, temporarily wiring the pump directly to the battery (with a switch), and seeing if that changes the symptoms.

So you have the pump on a seperate switch and the ignition off the ignition switch, right?

yes, the oem ignition is still there just a turn dial now instead of key's, later i'm going push button but need to takle one bug at a time.

The pump is on it's very own switch, from the battery, to the switch, to the pump. A hot wire i guess. i did use the factory black wire as my pump ground assuming that's what it was, to ground the pump. the switch has it's own ground.

It still sounds like dieseling to me. If there was a wiring issue that kept voltage going to the coil the car would run a lot longer than 5 or 10 seconds. The float bowls on a typical car hold enough gas for the car to idle at least a minute or more.

Cars that diesel typically are running rich, and the fuel octane is too low.

If the engine has a lot of miles on it and has a carbon buildup in the chambers that contributes to the problem as well.

I had several mid-80's Chevys with V8's and that stupid electronic carburetor GM made, that would run-on for several minutes if we put regular gas in the tank. One of them was so bad that it would keep running even with the transmission in drive.:mad:

I guess you could test the theory by undoing your wiring, temporarily wiring the pump directly to the battery (with a switch), and seeing if that changes the symptoms.

That's how it's already wired.