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Shut car off, feul pump off, car keep's going?


supraman

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It still sounds like dieseling to me. If there was a wiring issue that kept voltage going to the coil the car would run a lot longer than 5 or 10 seconds. The float bowls on a typical car hold enough gas for the car to idle at least a minute or more.

Cars that diesel typically are running rich, and the fuel octane is too low.

If the engine has a lot of miles on it and has a carbon buildup in the chambers that contributes to the problem as well.

I had several mid-80's Chevys with V8's and that stupid electronic carburetor GM made, that would run-on for several minutes if we put regular gas in the tank. One of them was so bad that it would keep running even with the transmission in drive.:mad:

I guess you could test the theory by undoing your wiring, temporarily wiring the pump directly to the battery (with a switch), and seeing if that changes the symptoms.

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So you have the pump on a seperate switch and the ignition off the ignition switch, right?

yes, the oem ignition is still there just a turn dial now instead of key's, later i'm going push button but need to takle one bug at a time. LOL

The pump is on it's very own switch, from the battery, to the switch, to the pump. A hot wire i guess. i did use the factory black wire as my pump ground assuming that's what it was, to ground the pump. the switch has it's own ground.

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It still sounds like dieseling to me. If there was a wiring issue that kept voltage going to the coil the car would run a lot longer than 5 or 10 seconds. The float bowls on a typical car hold enough gas for the car to idle at least a minute or more.

Cars that diesel typically are running rich, and the fuel octane is too low.

If the engine has a lot of miles on it and has a carbon buildup in the chambers that contributes to the problem as well.

I had several mid-80's Chevys with V8's and that stupid electronic carburetor GM made, that would run-on for several minutes if we put regular gas in the tank. One of them was so bad that it would keep running even with the transmission in drive.:mad:

I guess you could test the theory by undoing your wiring, temporarily wiring the pump directly to the battery (with a switch), and seeing if that changes the symptoms.

That's how it's already wired.

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