SO I have a very regular no crank condition... It only cranks every 5th to tenth twist of the key. I have installed a good used starter... ingnition switch and made sure all of my conections are good.. So I have found in the factory service manual that my car is equiped with an ignition inturupt AKA anti-theft safty $%^&*!!!! Is there a way to bypass this pain in my A$$!!! I really do not want to install a separate starter button but will if absolutely nessessary. Another potential symptom... When I turn the key to lock the ignition turns back on and occasionally the starter cranks.... for this I simply leave my key in the ignition in the off position... we dont have a real theft problem here.. everone carries GUNS... and they arent any good without bullits.:finger:So I have lived with this discomfort for about a year but now this start problem has gotten much worse and seems to be getting even more prevelant. In the wire diagram there are simply to manty possiblities ie.. door switch-seat belt switches-seat switches(integrated in the seats)"didnt know that"-buzzer and the diagnostic flow chart uses an apparatus I am sure has not been seen since Magnum PI went off the air"damn shame" Any help with this will sure be appreciated.. we want to make it to Canby again this year. I wont even try with this problem:mad:

SO thanks to any and all who can rescue me from beneath my dash.

To make things easy

12/73 260 manual trans

Well, you said you replaced the ignition switch, but did you replace the actual White switch that the dash harness plugs into??

There's a 6-pin connector that plugs into a white, round switch, behind the ignition switch (metal chassis) This is what's giving you an issue. On my 260Z, the previous owner tapped the starter wire at the key, and ran it directly to the starter solenoid wire, at the starter and tapped it in ther. This leaves all the stock wiring in place but also allows a hardwire while leaving the Safety crap there to do it's job.

I can't guarantee this will work for you but it's a start. Try to replace the white switch first, then do the bypass wire if that fails. Use no less than 16 or 14 gauge wire for that.

Dave.

Yup ... I replaced the electrical part and the same symptom... this is why I'm so perplexed. I think I will try the jump wire before anything more involved, just to see if it is a good solution.

Thanks as always... You D'man

Starter button FTW!!!

Refresh my memory. What does FTW stand for again?

And what do ya mean by Starter button. Are you suggesting one?

I'm working on a Nissan Start/Stop switch/button to "Plug-N-Play" for the Datsun 240Z.

It's got a ways to go before I can test it but I'm keeping my hopes up.

It will incorporate the Maxima Start/Stop ign. button. Press the button once to turn on the ACC. Then press the brake pedal and press the start button to activate the start sequence. After the car is running, the next press of the button will stop the engine but the Radio will stay on until the door opens. To listen to the radio with the door open, just press the button again to turn on the ACC. Shutting the door and arming the system will kill the ACC.

It's really hurting my brain but if it all comes together as planned, I should be able to sell them for much less then the competition. You'll just unplug the connector plug from the back of the ignition switch and plug it into the unit. Remove the igntion switch from the steering column, hog out the hole a little so the Nissan switch will snap into the hole, then run the cable from the switch into the unit. Tap the door pin wire, tap the brake switch wire and a few others and vah-voom, you're ready to go.

I plan to sell it with a keyless entry system that will not allow the unit to work unless the keyless system is disarmed. I'm hoping for an RFID system so that the unit can identify the driver from a theif.

More later,

Dave

Edited May 1, 200915 yr by Zs-ondabrain

Refresh my memory. What does FTW stand for again?

Well, if we assume that Fort Worth Meacham International Airport is not a logical meaning, it must be this one...

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=ftw

Oh, I thought it was WTF spelled backwards:stupid:

Chris

Me too, that's why I asked.

This is my personal favorite:

FTW: For The Win

Commonly used among geeks to express their enthusiasm for something.

WTG AR280z, you geek!

I have an update!!

OK... I have a bad ground I am sure of it. I tap the starter solonoid while turning the key and it starts every time!... I know, bad starter you say... ive tried 3... same results. So I was looking for voltage at the starter while cranking and I am only getting 3.5 volts or less to the starter when in the crank position. It varries with each try. 2.8-3.6-3.1 and so it goes.. I have been removing electrical components individually and cleaning contact surfaces... both spades and metal cans to ground... I hope to find it soon as I am running out of possibilities. I'll let you know the second I find it. For now I still drive it probably more than I should... but I cant help myself... its like a 15 year old with porn. Thanks for all the input. It all helps.

Well, you said you replaced the ignition switch, but did you replace the actual White switch that the dash harness plugs into??

There's a 6-pin connector that plugs into a white, round switch, behind the ignition switch (metal chassis) This is what's giving you an issue. On my 260Z, the previous owner tapped the starter wire at the key, and ran it directly to the starter solenoid wire, at the starter and tapped it in ther. This leaves all the stock wiring in place but also allows a hardwire while leaving the Safety crap there to do it's job.

I can't guarantee this will work for you but it's a start. Try to replace the white switch first, then do the bypass wire if that fails. Use no less than 16 or 14 gauge wire for that.

Dave.

Dave,

Do you also rebuild ignition switches like you do the T/S and Combo switches? I am also having ignition issues, which I will be chasing this weekend, and I'm researching my options, in case my problem is the switch.

The actual ignition switch (the small white electrical part) is still available new, and is relatively affordable. Not worth the time and shipping costs both ways for Dave to tear into. Seems like you can get them brand new for $25-30 or so. Fit '70-83 all.