Hey everyone, I just replaced my ball joints and tie rod ends. When I shake the passanger wheel at 12 and 6 there is still a little play, but no movement in the ball joint. Would this be wheel bearings or something? I read about the spindle being worn or the hub out of round, but I'm not quite sure. It is only minimal play, but play none the less. What should I look into? I need to get this resolved before I go in for inspection. What do you think?

Thanks, Elliot

You can try tightening the spindle nut a little so see if that get rid of the play. You should still be able to turn the wheel easily by hand without too much effort. If that doesn't do the trick, check to see if your play is in the lower contraol arm bushings. If tightrning the spindle nut works, you probably just compensated for natural wearing of the bearings. To do this right, you should actually measure the pre-load on the bearings with a small scale after inspecting and, lubing or replacing the bearings. The adjustment procedure and pre-load weight can be found in FSM or a Hanes manual.

Hey everyone, I just replaced my ball joints and tie rod ends. When I shake the passanger wheel at 12 and 6 there is still a little play, but no movement in the ball joint. Would this be wheel bearings or something? I read about the spindle being worn or the hub out of round, but I'm not quite sure. It is only minimal play, but play none the less. What should I look into? I need to get this resolved before I go in for inspection. What do you think?

Thanks, Elliot

I think you have the front and rear suspension confused here and I presume you are talking about the front. There is no spindle in the front. You probably need to adjust the wheel bearing to take out the play.

I think you have the front and rear suspension confused here and I presume you are talking about the front. There is no spindle in the front. You probably need to adjust the wheel bearing to take out the play.

"No spindels in the front", of course there is spindels in the front.

Cutlass372, take off the caps, take out the clevis pins, tighten up the nuts, not more than the wheels still turn freely, re install the clevis pins and you are there, this is not rocket science.

Chris

"No spindels in the front", of course there is spindels in the front.

Cutlass372, take off the caps, take out the clevis pins, tighten up the nuts, not more than the wheels still turn freely, re install the clevis pins and you are there, this is not rocket science.

Chris

The front bearings should not be "tight". Use the method in the FSM if you are inclined, or the general method I describe below. They are pretty much the same thing.

Take the cotter pin out, tighten the spindle nut a little more than snug while spinning the wheel. (this seats and aligns the bearing) Back off the spindle nut and re-tighten until JUST snug. Then back off, if necessary, the nut just enough to align the cotter pin.

Tapered bearings aren't designed to run with any substantial amount of preload. It's very easy to get them too tight which will eventually burn them up. It's better to be too loose than too tight in this case. You'll note the '73 FSM says to loosen the nut up to 15 degrees more to align the cotter pin.

If, after adjusting the bearing, you still have substantial play you could have a worn spindle or worn inner bearing races.

Steve

Steve, i try to explain the best i can "snug" is a word i have to add to my english, except of that, you did explain exact what i meant.

If i have to explain it even better, i have to do it in Danish, not sure if that will help-

Chris

Steve, i try to explain the best i can "snug" is a word i have to add to my english, except of that, you did explain exact what i meant.

If i have to explain it even better, i have to do it in Danish, not sure if that will help-

Chris

I understand, I just wanted to make sure he didn't over tighten the bearings. I've seen many ruined bearing sets. Almost always sitting behind a spindle nut that was tightened too much.

Steve

I think you have the front and rear suspension confused here and I presume you are talking about the front. There is no spindle in the front. You probably need to adjust the wheel bearing to take out the play.

Spindle in front, rear axle shaft (commonly called a stub axle) in the rear. Get your part nomenclature correct!

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I understand, I just wanted to make sure he didn't over tighten the bearings. I've seen many ruined bearing sets. Almost always sitting behind a spindle nut that was tightened too much.

Steve

Have you been spying on me?

I overtightened so many front spindles over the years before I eventually figured out how tight "snug" is that I am afraid to even discuss the issue...

:stupid:

"No spindels in the front", of course there is spindels in the front.

Cutlass372, take off the caps, take out the clevis pins, tighten up the nuts, not more than the wheels still turn freely, re install the clevis pins and you are there, this is not rocket science.

Chris

"Two nations divided by a common language". We call them stub axles in the UK

"Two nations divided by a common language". We call them stub axles in the UK

So true it is....A boot is something I put my feet into, not my groceries.

Edited May 3, 200915 yr by =Enigma=