I have my car up on stands and was removing the diff and half-shafts on the weekend. I knew these bolts would be a problem, I lubed them first, then used a torch and heated them up. The firast one turned a half turn then the head snapped off. All the rest broke off also. I noticed that the P/O must have snapped one off also because one was snapped off before I got to it.

I guess the best way now is to drill/tap it. But I need new bolts. I looked in the fiche and I *think* its #20. It says BOLT HEX M10 x4 (but theres 5 bolt holes?).

Anyone know the exact specs of this bolt so I can get replacements?

I photoshopped my fiche enough to read a part number, it was missing some letters and blurry. I punched part# 08124-03010 into nissanparts.cc and it came back 08124-0301A BOLT.

I guess I can just order them from Nissan. I power washed my half-shafts and diff and discovered the u-joints in them with zerk fittings. There was so much grease and crap caked on them. Now Im going to clean them up, paint them, new bushings, u-joints and as long as I can get the broken bolts out (fingers crossed) I'll be set.

Looking at a hard copy of the parts manual it shows 08124-03010 is the right (old) number. I would just get the Nissan bolts, rather than trying to find a substitute.

-Mike

Thanks Mike. I've been using my fiche cd alot, but I'm finding that I can't read some of the numbers.

I strongly suggest that you buy some Kroil and if you cannot get it buy PB Blaster, another item that will save you allot of grief is Anti Seize.

I havn't seen KROIL anywhere here, nor PB Blaster. I have been using anti-seize on things Ive already taken apart and put back together... So far I've been lucky, 2 bolts in the front of the engine cover, removed no problem. 1 head bolt again got it out, now these 4.

If I can get these 4 out (they're pretty important!) I'll consider the whole thing a success. I'll keep you posted.

I havn't seen KROIL anywhere here' date=' nor PB Blaster.[/quote']

I think the only place to get Kroil is online http://www.kanolabs.com/google/. That is where I get it.

-Mike

If you Google Kroil and hit there web page that way a couple of weeks ago they we're doing a "google" sale with some pretty good deals

Apparently its not east to find in Canada. There might be a reseller out west from what google says.

Found this on another site. Not sure how accurate, but hey, cheap alternative...

Be careful with acetone though, one of my buddies almost blew the chemistry lab back in university...

"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce

None ................. 516 pounds .

WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25

PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35

Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21

Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75

ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."

I hear that straight diesel fuel cuts rust pretty well, but I usually use PB blaster. (it smells awful however...)

If you can get those bolts from Nissan they would likely work better, but if I remember correctly those are a fine pitch 10mm thread. (Important to know if you have to re-tap the holes.)

Let me run out to the garage and see if I can get the actual thread pitch...

Yep, it is an M10x1.25

Edited May 6, 200915 yr by Walter Moore
Omitted information.

The bolts are M10 x 1.25 pitch and its difficult to find them in Class 10.9. You can find Class 8.8 which would be fine for a street driven car. If you're looking for Class 10.9 then Tacoma Screw Products has then in quantity.

http://www.tacomascrew.com/