Custom steelworks canberra has a 240k coupe and a four door to get templates from. Photos are necessary to see how extensive the rust is and over what area of course!

Thats good to hear. It would be pretty difficult to make parts based off photos and measurements.

"Custom Steelworks Canberra"

Why does this name ring a bell?

By any Chance would this be Peter, Daniel's (s13drifter) father?

Anyway, slightly off topic, but I wonder if they could punch out steel flares for GTR mock ups? With the numbers we have, it could be quite a money spinner. ;-)

Custom steelworks canberra has a 240k coupe and a four door to get templates from. Photos are necessary to see how extensive the rust is and over what area of course!

I assume by the seller's name that this is your business?

I sent you an email last wednesday, and I've so far had no response whatsoever.

can you give me a phone number to call or ring me on 02 8868 6706

Hi Matt, we have sent a couple of emails, but keep getting "sending delay" messages back, i have left my number on your mobile, please call back anytime.

time for an update.

well, I gave up trying to find replacement panels. the sections I needed were probably too big to be made from scratch, so I have taken the least favourable option of paying a panel beater to straighten it for me.

I have some GTR flares going on which will hide some of the sins. I'm going to visit the car tomorrow to see how far along he's got. every panel will be re-painted except the bonnet.

the suspension - I welded a new end on the cross member, and then 4 new pivot points for the trailing arm that was ripped off. cross members break in rally cars, so you have to strengthen then significantly. mine has so much work in it, that its easier to do all that i've just describer than to strengthen a new one.

the mounting pin mounts were straightened, welded up and plated. I made a new shock mount, and straightened the diff carrier mounting pins. the moustache bar (across the back of the R200) is still a bit twisted, but it fits. its 50mm x 10mm. takes a shed load of heat to straighten. what a PITA.

the LH spring seat was heated, straightened, and re-welded. the LH trailing arm adjustment bolt was replaced, and all the rear brakes are new (275mm vented with Rx7 series 4 - 4 spot), as is the LH drive shaft, and both axels.

The shocks are still with Murray Coote, so I made some temporary ones buy grinding the mounting points off standard ones and welding them on the opposite end (turns the shock upside down)

so all of that just to get it to drive again. hopefully I'll have it back on the road again real soon.

note to self - don't do that again.

went to visit my car today. looking slightly more repairable now.

Hey Matt, are you running Mazda brakes in the front with the original struts?...If you do have the original struts, I'm sure you have welded the adjustable coil-overs. But I was just curious, because over here in Japan, they all just get S30/DR30 front struts, and slap R32/R33/MK63 calipers. The R32 and R33 calipers need brackets to fit the S30 struts. I was looking for something that would bolt right on to my GC111 struts.

unfortunately I haven't yet found something that will bolt straight onto the c110 struts without a bracket. I'm sure there is something, but I haven't found it yet. (180B struts are easier because they have 75mm bolt spacing - you can use Toyota Hilux 4 spot or a number of others.)

my front brakes are Z32 calipers and disks. the mounting brackets I'm using bolt with 7 bolts through to the strut. (4 where the backing plate used to be and 3 new ones.) They don't use the original caliper mounting points at all. The beauty of doing it this way is that you can use virtually any datsun strut.

all fixed - now to put it back together, hopefully in time to give it a run next weekend.