Grant steering wheel adaptor

[peng155]

Guy's....

I purchased a new club sport steering wheel from MSA about a year or so ago, The wheel is nice, BUT the adapter leaves something to be desired..

My main complaint is that the contact plate on the underside of the adapter sits so far up the adapter hub, that I need to bend the copper contact arm almost 90 deg. perpendicular to mounting point to reach the contact plate.

I had sent the combo stock, and T/S stock out to Dave for R&R, and made some other mods to the car, got it all put back together, and when I went to take the car out for a test drive, any slight turn of the wheel left or right causes the horns to go off.

It's possible I may have a pinched wire some where in the column from when I put the combo, and T/S switches back in.. I'll have to check that out tonight, but with regards to needing to bend the contact arm so drastically, I was wondering, Did anyone else with a Grant steering wheel, and adapter find themselves having to do this?

Thanks for your input....

-Phil

[Zs-ondabrain]

Personally, I would pull the adaptor and see exactly where the horn tab is riding on the copper plate. It sounds like the tab may be moving off to the side and grounding on the metal of the adaptor, causing the horn to honk.

Make sure the tab is dead center on the plate and tighten the screw that holds the tab centered.

Dave

[gnosez]

Tape the inside edge of the center cap and see if that helps.

As to bending the contact arm, I seem to remember doing it but not as much as you had to.

[peng155]

Tape the inside edge of the center cap and see if that helps.

As to bending the contact arm, I seem to remember doing it but not as much as you had to.

Gnosez,

Great suggestion... and so simple...

Thanks

[peng155]

Personally, I would pull the adaptor and see exactly where the horn tab is riding on the copper plate. It sounds like the tab may be moving off to the side and grounding on the metal of the adaptor, causing the horn to honk.

Make sure the tab is dead center on the plate and tighten the screw that holds the tab centered.

Dave

Hey Dave,

That was one of the first things I checked when I pulled the steering wheel, the tab screw was tight, but I could still move the contact arm. I tried to tighten the hold down screw some more, but I didn't try too hard for fear of stripping the threads, or cracking the plastic mounting plate that the contact arm was mounted to.

[gnosez]

That's what most people call me - simple....

[TomoHawk]

Tape the inside edge of the center cap and see if that helps.

Wuil tape stick to the inside? If not then try painting on a coat of plasti-dip or bedliner stuff.

As to bending the contact arm, I seem to remember doing it but not as much as you had to. I also had to bend mine, and if you weren't careful when removing or replacing the column covers, you could accidentally touch it and move it closer to being in-contact with the hub, and later have the horn go off (BTDT.) On my 280Z, the part that the tab attaches to is squarish and the tab has a shoulder, so it shouldn't be able to move- at least when it was new. Make sure everything is clean & dry when assembling and only those certain parts requiring lubricant actually have it.

Or a tiny bit of GOOP to keep it in place.

[soundmasterg]

I used a Grant adaptor plus a custom adaptor I had made up to adapt a Mountney steering wheel into my Z. The Grant adaptor due to it's construction sticks out about 1/2" further than the stock wheel as far as the horn contact patch is concerned, so you have to bend the tab for the horn out. I tried to use a spacer and a longer screw but my horn was going off when I turned to the right. So just bending it out worked for me, although I bent it out and then bent the contacting portion of it at a right angle to contact the contact patch correctly. Once I bent it the right way my horn works just fine now. Maybe you need to adjust how you bent it again?

The Grant hub leaves a bit to be desired due to it's spacing but it can be made to work.

Greg