Hi Kid-K,

I presume you have larger front brakes, and possibly rear disk conversions? what size wheels did you put through the engineering process?

Kent

Found the paperwork from my engineer, not saying this is gospel, but according to him these are the figures...standard track front=1370 rear= 1350....Track can go to..front=1395 rear=1375.................With my mods and the r32 wheels my track is front=1385, rear=1340.....all cars with the wheels out to the flares and produced before 1976 according to my engineer are not legal...

No I don't, but I may be able to fine some. I saw the pic's on OZDAT.com

the R200 short is simply not design to take stresses like that if you want to do it safely build the rear cross-member into a rear sub-frame other wise if you want to be legal spend $$K and get a rear end engineered like Mr Convertible did

for ozdat members http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=12719&start=0

its a 1600 to my knowledge :>

awesome conversion, wouldn't be to hard to make a kit that would fit the k.......thanks for the pics

a kit is a good idea but with such a limited market I'm not sure if it would be worth it also if you were to make it i would suggest making it a bolt on and not weld on affair as this is illegal without blue plates so having it removable is a good way to pass the pits :>

Can you please explain "blue plates" all mods done on my car where welded..adjustable rear, engine mounts, gearbox mounts, even rabbit ears..is it a brissy thing?

Dont worry to much about what is said on Performance Fourms, everyone speaks there mind on there about how they think any car should look.

When a car has a modification done to it in QLD it gets a blue modification plate. Modification to suspension components such as the cross member or cradle as far as I can remember require a modification cert in QLD as dose almost everything in QLD. As far as welding goes I was not putting it down when done correctly it is one of the strongest ways of fastening the structure. I was merely pointing out that it is not "easy to reverse". Unless you have a complete spare rear end just hagging around if and when a cop inspects the car and asks it to be sent to the pits for a detailed inspection, if the car has no modification plate and a bolted in diff you would be able to swap it in for a standard diff.

@blk180: I'm just trying to help by giving suggestions that are mechanicly valid and safe as I have been down this thought path with other engineers much older and smarter than myself.

I understand, very educated comment Mr Ovenfood, not everyone wants to go through an engineering exercise, thanks for the explanation..."blk180's" comment about performanceforum was directed at me, I got a few comments about the way my car should look, and the fact that I should remove the "lebo 18's" and put 15's back on it....not that there's anything wrong with 15"s, just not the look I was after...

....not that there's anything wrong with 15"s, just not the look I was after...

I been looking into what 15 inch tyres are available, and there's not a great deal about,

especially if you want to stay to the height that the original tyres gave you (185x70x14)

the 50 series in 15 inch are equal to the original 14 inch tyres in height, but these are the only one I found so far,

225/50R15 G-Forceâ„¢ Sport BFGoodrich

225/50R15 ZE912 Falken

225/50R15 Ventus HR II Hankook

225/50R15 Ventus Prine Hankook

225/50ZR15 Ventus R-s2 Hankook

225/50ZR15 Proxes R888 Toyo

235/50ZR15 Proxes R888 Toyo

I can't find any wider 15 in 50 series, so width will be restricted to 9 inch

Nigel

I had the same issue, soon as you go up to 17's there's a whole new world out there.

This guy's from performanceforum as well, little aggressive but he has a store in Parramatta, might be of interest to someone

http://www.otomoto.com.au/showroom.htm