Hi everyone, Wondering if anyone is interested but Operation K is underway. Our project starts off with a coupe shell that i salvaged from the crusher which cost me $350 a tonne. It spent the last 3 months having all the rust cut out of it which includes lower rear quarters front and back, rear beaver panel, lower door skins, lower guard skins, roof gutters in and out and steel GT-R guards. The photos show some of the steel work that we've completed.

I've decided to install an RB25det with matching gearbox, and r200 diff centre with cv rather than the uni's. R32 rotors with the quad spots upfront and California vented rears and calipers up back, all sitting on z31, 5 stud hubs.

Most of the fabrication is completed and i will post more shots if anyone is interested...

yea rb20 man. it's actually ridiculous how perfect the engine and box fits. the x-member on the box lines-up perfect and the shifter is dead centre in the hole. all i had to do was drill one hole in the silvia x-member and it bolted up. the x-member looks like it's on a big angle but it works . the datsun one made the end of the box sit hard up against one side in the tunnel.

keen to see how your plenum turned out. that's what has been done to mine but not working so well in the datto.

what's the worm drive worth?

here's some photos of the diff. i actually got lucky one day and a guy was selling this R30 rear end with disc brakes and the r230 already fitted for $500. i didnt care how much it cost i just wanted it . the R30 rear into a c210 is a straight swap. all i had to do was re-drill my mustache bar for the new diff. this was actually one of the most challenging parts of the entire project. just finding a drill and drill bit that will go through it is a mission on it's own. a die grinder is what eventually got those holes to a good width and over the finish line.. which is like 14-15mm from memory. even though the diff is massive, there is still alot of room in there. yet to do a road test. oh and it's a 3.7:1 final drive.

pics:

the way they've done it is by welding plates together to make mounts for the input end of the diff. and redrilled the mustache bar to suit. this didnt come with any bolts to bolt it to the k-frame so i just used some spare wheel studs and washers that i had lying around. perfect length and fit.

if you need any more pics of anywhere specific let me know.

as for rear brakes i dunno yet. but up front i am converting everything to s13. ive got HSD coilovers all round. using knuckles and hubs too. the silvia already had the sumitomo 4-piston calipers fitted which are pretty good but the possibilities are endless i guess.

humm I have seen similar short nose swaps done and I personally would not do it this way, but if I did I would not have the diff take the load like it is here. My way was going to be a tube frame welded from the rear sub frame and bolted to where the mustache bar bolts onto the chassis. The R200 shortnose (and this R230) are not designed to be use as apart of the structure.

Just my 2 cents.

(I work with metal a fair bit so I am just trying to give constructive criticism from an engineering stand point)

It kinda was bugging me a little too....off to the local importers tomorrow just to see, its got me interested. Ovenfood, do you have any pics of the other diff conversions?

thanks guys. i actually have no idea what the right way is, so every bit of info helps. can you help me understand why it is bad and how i may rectify it?

My 20cents worth! A standard K or c210 diff has 4 bolts up front sharing the weight and the rotation of the diff, using the moustache brow as alignment. Your setup has the rear of the diff solid mounted and the front able to rotate up front. This puts strain on the outer casing of the diff near the input shaft and changes the angle of the input shaft at the same time....so in a silvia, or r32 etc, the "k" frame is solidly mount to the moustache brow and the diff sits in a cradle, the k frame can't rotate!!.........what you have now is sort of a scissor action happening everytime you place power into your diff..........BUT! who's to say that the outer casing of the diff isn't strong enough and I've just waffled on...............solution your "k" frame and moustache brow need to be joined as in the second picture......heaps of luck man, thanks for insight.......

Edited June 11, 201113 yr by KID-K

Mr Shadow, a few pics of my manifold conversion.........

wtf?? yours looks stock!! mine looks like a frigging abortion by comparison . well done there bud.

im gunna see how this diff goes. i wont be putting stupid amounts of hp through it. and the rb20 has pretty ghey levels of torque. but i do totally get what you're saying.

man i cannot get over how god that plenum looks. i got no idea what the guy was thinking when my plenum was done. but if you saw the rest of the silvia, the whole car is done pretty half-assed.

....... The guards have been designed to fit 19 inch wheels front and back ( at the moment I'm using R32 GTR wheels as guides, but they are way too small.....

Hi,

What size rims, tires, offset did you use in the end ?

Nigel

Hi Noddle, can't remember the offset, but I will check for you...but the rim size is 18" at the rear they are 10" and have 265x35 and the fronts are 8" and have 225x40 on them....with no spacers....could easily fit another inch on the back without to much problem.....I posted a pic of the coupe on PERFORMANCEFORUMS and they bagged the F*#K out of my car because of the wheel size and choice....told me to 15" back on it.....a bit too "leb" for some. Will get back to you with the offset....I'll post a pic with the new 265 on the back...

Hi Kid-K,

I presume you have larger front brakes, and possibly rear disk conversions? what size wheels did you put through the engineering process?

Kent

He knocked my back with the 18", but I argued the fact that I had changed hubs and that the wheel size should be measured by what came original with the r32 or the 300z and not with the k. We came to the conclusion that we couldn't fit any smaller than the r32 wheels. It's engineered with them. 17"s

Hi Kid-K,

I presume you have larger front brakes, and possibly rear disk conversions? what size wheels did you put through the engineering process?

Kent

Found the paperwork from my engineer, not saying this is gospel, but according to him these are the figures...standard track front=1370 rear= 1350....Track can go to..front=1395 rear=1375.................With my mods and the r32 wheels my track is front=1385, rear=1340.....all cars with the wheels out to the flares and produced before 1976 according to my engineer are not legal...