Pertronix: Won't rev past 4-4.5k

[Marty Rogan]

I run my Pertronix w/o ballast resistor, i might fry it, who knows, i have also tried with BR and it makes no difference.

Chris

I ran mine with the BR and it ended up frying anyway, ! I tried them on both my cars. The first lasted probably 6-7 years before frying. The second one only lasted about 2 years. I gave up on them and switched to a rebulit ZX dizzy and have had no trouble since.

Marty

[Arne]

As I recall the latest Pertronix instructions say to use a BR (or not) depending on the resistance of your coil. I can't remember which way is which now, and don't have my instructions here at work. I know that I am running my Pertronix sans BR, but I have a Pertronix coil of the proper resistance for that.

[Cutlass372]

I am on my way to go get a cap, I bought a rotor not long ago. I will check the resistance when I go out. I'll let you know when I get back. Does anyone think they could snap me a pic of the pertronix install? Like where you have all of the wires placed (without the BR), It would be a great help. Also what about the timing? What mark do I want?

Thanks, Elliot

[Arne]

Just a WAG here, what plugs are you using, and how wide are they gapped?

I'd still be curious to know about the plugs, as I had a similar issue and the plugs were part of the answer.

[Cutlass372]

The plugs did help a little bit, but they didnt take the problem away. I got the NGK OE replacement plugs and they are gapped at .032.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEIC10/12-4020

This is the kit that I bought, the coil is a 3 ohm. Is anyone able to take a pic? I think it may help a lot. I don't know what else to check.. the timing is set at the second mark from the right most mark (with the vac adv. off). Is that right?

Thanks

[Cutlass372]

Here are some pictures I just took, does this look right?

[Cutlass372]

No one? I thought the pics might help a little.. haha. Please help me figure out whats going on

[alhbln]

No one? I thought the pics might help a little.. haha. Please help me figure out whats going on

You don't need a ballast resistor with the 3 Ohm Flamethrower coil.

Using a Pertronix Ignitor I, the primary load should never exceed 4 ampere on a six cylinder engine. So, if you have a coil with less than 3 ohm you need to add a ballast resistor (example, with a 1.5 Ohm coil you want to add a 1.5 Ohm ballast resistor to reach 3 Ohm in the setup).

You can also remove the capacitor, it is only required with a points based setup to reduce arcing between the points.

[Cutlass372]

Did you see the pics? I am not running either and I already stated that the coil was a 3.0 ohm. Just saying.. not trying to be rude.. I just put a new cap on and that didn't change anything. Where to turn now..?

[alhbln]

I couldnt make out too much from the pics, a drawing of the your wiring would be helpful.

Based on the description i would assume that the issue is either too much retardation/timing issues with the distributor and/or current starvation (the ignition does not get enough power at higher RPMs to create an sufficient amount of sparks and spark energy) assuming that the engine and the Pertronix components are ok.

You might also want to recheck the installation of the Pertronix trigger sleeve, a loose or wobbly trigger sleeve can lead to the same symptoms, including the bit about the tacho needle jumping around.

A clogged air filter or obstructed air inlet can also lead to the same symptoms due to o2 starvation.

I would do the following next steps (you might need to involve a workshop to have access to the tools):

As a first easty test, get an adjustable timing light and jot down the distributors advance curve by drawing a chart for every 500 RPM, compare the results with the curve in the workshop manual. While doing this test, check that the timing mark appears stable at each RPM measured. If the mark jumps around you have a worn out distributor axle and/or a wobbly trigger sleeve.

Better yet, run the distributor on a distributor tester over the full rpm range and compare the advance/retard curve with the workshop manual to make sure the distributor is up to the job.

The next test require special equipment but is the most efficient approach to identify the problem.

Check out the burn pattern (ignition sequence) and trigger timing using an automotive oscilloscope (such as Picoscope) and HV clamps while slowly raising the RPM until the engine starts hesitating.

This helps to quickly identify trigger/timing issues and possible problems with current starvation and coil, spark wire or plug issues as well as fuel starvation at higher RPMs.

[bpilati]

I run my Pertronix w/o ballast resistor, i might fry it, who knows, i have also tried with BR and it makes no difference.

Chris

It makes a difference on the tach, at least on the earlier models. I wonder what coil he purchased, it has to be the right one to work with the BR. Did you upgrade to 280 or 280ZX plugs? Remember you're putting out more voltage.

[ChrisZ]

bpilati, I have a 3 wire tach, it do not show the correct value, but that doesen't change, if i run it with BR, any one knows how to adjust a tach.

IIRC i have NGK BRP6ES

Cutlass have a look at the attachments, they are to find on CZCC, just search.

Chris