The restoration has begun

[=Enigma=]

Since the 240Z was never factory rust proofed, I would be surprised if any of the cars that were originally put in service have zero rust. I did not want to take any chances that rust was hiding, so this is the only way I could be sure.

I could be wrong on this, but I think it was only the early 240Zs that had no form of rust treatment. I don't know when this practice started but while stripping my 73, it was apparent that the main unibody structure had been treated in some way, perhaps with zinc? This was true for the front wheel wells (haven't gotten to the rear yet) and the floor pan, but other parts welded to the main structure did not get the same treatment. Examples of this are the cup like structure where the T/C rod mounts, strut towers, and the gusset plate above the boxed frame section behind the T/C rod mount. See pics below taken immediately after removing the tar and stripping the paint with Jasco.

Edited June 28, 2009 by =Enigma=

[zed2]

Fortunately, most of the car is in great shape, no evidence of prior collision repair. I do not plan to over-refresh the car. I just want to have confidence that I am not short stepping the process.

I am not interested in manufacturing a "2009" 240Z, therefore I am not planning to update the car to contemporary standards. My goal is to have the car ride, sound, operate, and feel as it did when it was first manufactured.

I get a lot of comments on suggested updates; poly bushings, wider wheels & tires, performance exhaust, 5 speed transmission, 2.8 liter motor, etc... I know that these enhancements may make the car perform better, however that is not my goal.

Unfortunately, I do not have a point of reference on how the car felt when new. We are trying to match the weld points as closely as possible, so the car flexes as it was designed. So all I can do at this point is to use OEM parts and hope for the best.

[zed2]

Adam,

I know the car had rust treatment; I was referring to rust proofing. Certain components of the 240Z had zinc or cadmium plating as well as the body was primed prior to painting. However, none of these coatings/steps prevented rust, they only delayed the formation of rust.

Thanks for allowing me to clarify.

[Diseazd]

Adam's right.....I got a 73 dogleg for my 71 resto and it was zinc coated....all parts removed from the 71 were plain metal....the best rust proofing for a Z was growing up in Arizona. The wheel well seams are the most vulnerable rust areas for the Z's. When you attach the outter fender to the inner wheel well, seal the seam good. This prevents water from getting trapped and also running down into the dogleg.

[=Enigma=]

Adam,

I know the car had rust treatment; I was referring to rust proofing. Certain components of the 240Z had zinc or cadmium plating as well as the body was primed prior to painting. However, none of these coatings/steps prevented rust, they only delayed the formation of rust.

Thanks for allowing me to clarify.

True, there are a lot of areas on the car that could have been better designed to further delay the rust monster from roosting in our cars. The cowl drain also comes to mind. Just trying to add futher food for thought, not pointing out flaws in anything you said.

[lonetreesteve]

Unbelievable! Now you know why Carl says pay up for a rust free car........

.........the best rust proofing for a Z was growing up in Arizona........

Guy, I couldn't agree with you more. For many years, Carl Beck has tried to stress that probably the single most important factor when selecting a Z is how solid the body is. It's always worth paying more for a Z-car with very little or virtually no rust than paying less and having to deal with the expense and frustration of a rusted car. Just as your '70 spent its entire life in the dry Arizona desert climate, I took Carl's advice and looked hard for the most solid project car I could find and found one in Arizona. There have been plenty of solid 240Zs for sale over the years in the southwest (Arizona, California, Texas, Nevada and New Mexico) you just have to keep looking and not worry so much about the cost of shipping. Heck, the shipping is a just a drop in the bucket compared to what a lot of guys are paying for rust repairs.

[Diseazd]

My three Z's are from Texas, Arizona and a car warehoused and not driven since 79 from Virginia.

[zed2]

Here are the latest photos of the fenders, doors, and hood.

In terms of the parts needed, I have sourced NOS original oil filled shocks, OEM rubber bushings (I cannot believe how many individual part numbers there are!), KOITO headlamps, and an original exhaust removed from a 1970 after 15K miles.

My fear is that as the car gets put together I will discover that I need some unanticipated part and sourcing the part will delay the reassembly.

Edited August 17, 2009 by zed2

[five&dime]

My fear is that as the car gets put together I will discover that I need some unanticipated part and sourcing the part will delay the reassembly.

I would just count on that if I were you

[zed2]

Here are the photos of the unibody back from the sandblaster. Fortunately, no big surprises.

[Mikes Z car]

Thank you for the great pictures

[g9m3c]

Can't wait to see more progress! That paint looks nice.