Phacade Posted October 3, 2002 Share #1 Posted October 3, 2002 So I am going to change them out. I found where they go and how they plug in. I cheated a bit and took a spare guage I had lying around to get the bulb size. Problem, I can only visually match it because there is no part no, and none of the part stores have it in their books or computers. Does anyone know which bulb my guages take? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AxtellZ Posted October 3, 2002 Share #2 Posted October 3, 2002 Well, i always have just matched visually, but here goes:license plate lamp- 7.5WTail 7WStop/tail 23/8WFlasher 23WReverse 23WInsrument 3 or 3.4WWarning/Indicator 3WInterior 10WEngine comp lamp 8WGlove comp lamp 3WMy local NAPA has all of them in stock, easy stuff.HTH, JA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EScanlon Posted October 3, 2002 Share #3 Posted October 3, 2002 I just recently bought Sylvania #53 for the instrument, and although haven't had a chance to light them up, they fit well and they are 3.4 w.2¢ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phacade Posted October 6, 2002 Author Share #4 Posted October 6, 2002 So after only 2 hours I successfully managed to swap out the Temp/Oil guage light, the Fuel/Amp guage light, and the clock light (although I am not certain why because it does not work).Somehow I managed to crush a old bulb in my hand and got blood in my dash. Fortunatly I didnt stain anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EScanlon Posted October 6, 2002 Share #5 Posted October 6, 2002 And you are now a Blood Brother with your car. That means you will have to take care of it and keep it running well and it will in turn give you hours of satisfaction.Crazy as it seems, it seems that if I do a job / procedure on the car and I don't nick myself, then I end up redoing it later. If I cut / scratch / gouge etc etc, then the job goes flawlessly and it ends up as good or better than what I wanted. Do you think the car is out to get it out of me regardless of whether it's blood or money? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phacade Posted October 7, 2002 Author Share #6 Posted October 7, 2002 Personally I think that because the car gets hurt itself that it takes a certain degree of satisfaction in hurting me back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmsports Posted October 7, 2002 Share #7 Posted October 7, 2002 'Blood, Sweat and Beers'The shade-tree mechanics credo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmack Posted October 7, 2002 Share #8 Posted October 7, 2002 "If you don't get hurt, then you weren't really working." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EScanlon Posted December 4, 2002 Share #9 Posted December 4, 2002 If you take your clock apart, carefully, you can usually add a very tiny drop of sewing machine oil to the motor (yes there is one in there) and get your clock to work again.I did this, and now have a working clock! (it does lose about 10 minutes a day, but hey, it works!)2¢ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZwolleY Posted December 4, 2002 Share #10 Posted December 4, 2002 My clock looses about a week every day. What is the best way to get a clock out-I want to try the oil thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EScanlon Posted December 4, 2002 Share #11 Posted December 4, 2002 Hoo Boy! Take your pick: Remove the glove compartment box, then insert your hand in and twist it around until you can reach the bolt holding the Y-strap to the dash, unplug the clock and then pull it out. Installation is the reverse of removal. (Don't you hate that line?) OR Remove the Heater Control Panel. In order to do that you may have to remove the center console. Once the center console is out of the way, disconnect the radio face plate from the HCP. Then disconnect the HCP cables from their respective connections on the heater box and vent. Once the HCP is out of the way, reach in and remove the one bolt that holds the Y-Strap holding the radio to the dash. Unplug the clock and remove. IITROR. Now as to which one is the best way? Then again, if your hands are small, and you have relatively nimble fingers and wrist, you might be able to get in there with a 10mm socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet, or a 90° Phillips Ratchet Screwdriver and snake your hand up between the glove compartment box, the radio and the defrost tubes to the back of the clock. Remember, there is only ONE bolt holding that clock to the dash. That bolt goes through the leg of the "Y" bracket that holds the actual clock with two screws, one through each arm of the Y. The connections are polarized, but the connectors are coordinated (i.e. male and female on the clock, and female and male on the harness) If you decide to remove the HCP, you can then also gain access to the Speedo and Tach. Why would you want to access those? So that you can: a) Change the light bulbs to make sure that you have NEW bulbs and not 30 year old ones; Open up the instrument gauges themselves and paint the interior walls of the "cans" with a bright white paint. The paint will make the bulb lighting reflect better throughout the can and you will appreciate the brighter illumination. 2¢ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZwolleY Posted December 4, 2002 Share #12 Posted December 4, 2002 I guess that there is no easy way. Unless my 65 year old arthritic fingers sprout two more joints I may just buy one of those stick-on clocks for a buck. Actually, I will give it a try. I will be renewing my blood brother-ship with my car. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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