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Guage/Instrument lights


Phacade

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So I am going to change them out. I found where they go and how they plug in. I cheated a bit and took a spare guage I had lying around to get the bulb size. Problem, I can only visually match it because there is no part no, and none of the part stores have it in their books or computers.

Does anyone know which bulb my guages take?

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Well, i always have just matched visually, but here goes:

license plate lamp- 7.5W

Tail 7W

Stop/tail 23/8W

Flasher 23W

Reverse 23W

Insrument 3 or 3.4W

Warning/Indicator 3W

Interior 10W

Engine comp lamp 8W

Glove comp lamp 3W

My local NAPA has all of them in stock, easy stuff.

HTH, JA

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So after only 2 hours I successfully managed to swap out the Temp/Oil guage light, the Fuel/Amp guage light, and the clock light (although I am not certain why because it does not work).

Somehow I managed to crush a old bulb in my hand and got blood in my dash. Fortunatly I didnt stain anything.

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And you are now a Blood Brother with your car. That means you will have to take care of it and keep it running well and it will in turn give you hours of satisfaction.

Crazy as it seems, it seems that if I do a job / procedure on the car and I don't nick myself, then I end up redoing it later. If I cut / scratch / gouge etc etc, then the job goes flawlessly and it ends up as good or better than what I wanted.

Do you think the car is out to get it out of me regardless of whether it's blood or money?

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  • 1 month later...

If you take your clock apart, carefully, you can usually add a very tiny drop of sewing machine oil to the motor (yes there is one in there) and get your clock to work again.

I did this, and now have a working clock! (it does lose about 10 minutes a day, but hey, it works!)

2¢

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Hoo Boy!

Take your pick:

Remove the glove compartment box, then insert your hand in and twist it around until you can reach the bolt holding the Y-strap to the dash, unplug the clock and then pull it out. Installation is the reverse of removal. (Don't you hate that line?)

OR

Remove the Heater Control Panel. In order to do that you may have to remove the center console. Once the center console is out of the way, disconnect the radio face plate from the HCP. Then disconnect the HCP cables from their respective connections on the heater box and vent. Once the HCP is out of the way, reach in and remove the one bolt that holds the Y-Strap holding the radio to the dash. Unplug the clock and remove. IITROR.

Now as to which one is the best way?

Then again, if your hands are small, and you have relatively nimble fingers and wrist, you might be able to get in there with a 10mm socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet, or a 90° Phillips Ratchet Screwdriver and snake your hand up between the glove compartment box, the radio and the defrost tubes to the back of the clock.

Remember, there is only ONE bolt holding that clock to the dash.

That bolt goes through the leg of the "Y" bracket that holds the actual clock with two screws, one through each arm of the Y. The connections are polarized, but the connectors are coordinated (i.e. male and female on the clock, and female and male on the harness)

If you decide to remove the HCP, you can then also gain access to the Speedo and Tach. Why would you want to access those? So that you can: a) Change the light bulbs to make sure that you have NEW bulbs and not 30 year old ones; B) Open up the instrument gauges themselves and paint the interior walls of the "cans" with a bright white paint. The paint will make the bulb lighting reflect better throughout the can and you will appreciate the brighter illumination.

2¢

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I guess that there is no easy way. Unless my 65 year old arthritic fingers sprout two more joints I may just buy one of those stick-on clocks for a buck. Actually, I will give it a try. I will be renewing my blood brother-ship with my car. Thanks.

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