Body work,paint procedure

[Logan's 240Z]

Hi Guys,Just looking for some opinions on the proper procedure for body painting.I'm doing a complete nut and bolt restoration on a 4/73 240z.This is my plan:Walnut shell blast entire car,doors,hatch,fenders ect.Then do all rust repair,then primer.Now is where I'm not sure.Should I final paint and clear coat all inboard surfaces,and interior,then assemble complete car .Then paint the outside of car after its assembled? This is my first shot at doing a car.I've done tractors,minibikes,boats,bicycles,furniture,electric motors.Those were pretty straight forward compaired to this.Again any help is greatly appreciated,Roger

[Bruce Palmer]

Roger,

I'm not a painter or a bodyman so wont pass on my take on how things should go other than to suggest you might avail yourself of the DVDs at www.paintucation.com. These are excellent teacking tools and Kevin has a good Q&A board as well where you can get info on specific issues. Good luck.

With the water bornes coming on things are changing rapidly......

[beandip]

I didn't do a restoration , because I wanted my Z how I wanted it. That being said. This is what I did.

I reduced my Z to a rolling shell. Both front fenders off , engine and Trans out, all glass removed and all the interior removed. Now is the time to do all the mechanical work. If you want to do the suspension now is the time. Also this is when the rust repair should be done. Then media blast if this is what you want to do. Now take on the body work that needs to be done. This way the bare metal wont be exposed for a long period. When the body pounding is done , this is important completely wipe down the whole car with grease/wax remover twice. the old wax on wax off method. Apply the remover with one cloth and wype it off with another. Then shoot the metal with epoxy primer followed with hi-fill primer. This is now when you start the wet sanding. Completely go over the whole car. Then shoot again with Hi fill if no bare metal is exposed. And sand again , eliminating all the little flaws. If you need another coat of primer do it. Once you are satisfied the finish is flawless shoot another coat of epoxy primer to seal and finish the prep. you are ready for color. In a nut shell this is what was done on my Z 6years ago and my Z still takes awards when shown. Other than the welding done for rust repair, I did all of this in my home garage with the help of my friend EScanlon, with out his help I couldn't have done this project. He showed me how to straighten metal and prep the car for paint. He shot the color and clear for me in my garage . It can be done in your own garage if you have the skills and desire. This is a big project but something that I mostly enjoyed. It took over 2 1/2 years.

Edited May 29, 2009 by beandip
spelling

[Carl Beck]

Hi Roger:

I'd say that the short answer is "Yes".... but I'd suggest that the steps go:

1. Strip the car to a bare shell.

Media blast the entire body - if that is what you have decided to do. This has the advantage of making any previous body work visible

2. With a bare metal shell - clean it down and apply an epoxy primer. You want to do that as soon as possible after media blasting to prevent flash rust on the sheet-metal.

Many shops clean the bare metal with Ospho, then actually rinse it off with water, and blow it dry. The Ospho will etch the bare metal, and protect it from the rinse water.. just blow it dry. Then apply the epoxy primer. All metal patching can then be done, then re-coat the metal where necessary with the epoxy primer. Then do any body work that needs fillers like bondo right over the top of the epoxy primer.. Here you want to work the metal such that only very thin coast of fillers are needed.

3. Yes - paint the engine compartment, door and deck jams, and the interior etc.

4. Assemble the car to the extent that you have the doors, hood, rear deck lid and fenders all properly lined up - - -

5. Apply the top coat of paint to the entire car. Professional shops with great painters, wonderful paint booths and lots of experience - can "Panel Paint" the parts then assemble... but using that method it is easy to have variations in the color, not to mention gaining nicks in the paint ... So Panel Painting is not a good choice for the do-it-yourself'ers.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[Logan's 240Z]

Thanks for the input! You guys have put me down the right path.I'll be posting photos of my progress.It's been six days since I got the car and I'm about half way to having it completely stripped for blasting.Rust repair is going to sure slow things down.Not in a hurry though.I have a 2 year window for completion.This is my sons senior project and he'll be a junior next year.I'm already getting the itch to get one of my own.Thanks again,Roger