X-Ray view of internal body cavities 240Z

[Diseazd]

Check out the last page on my restoration.......The rust you have will probably not be a quick fix, but will require major surgery to be done right. Remember....rust never sleeps! My bodyman made a great observation....there is a seam where the rear inner wheel well attaches along the lip of the outter fender. It never was sealed very well from the factory. Water is thrown up by the rear wheel and is driven in the seam....some stays around in the seam ( an area that rusts out quite often ) and some drains forward into the rear dogleg and sits....and rots. Fix the dogleg correctly, seal the seam with silicon and sleep better at night. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25643&page=5

[jmortensen]

In Canada they have a treatment called Krown where they drill holes in the frame and body members and spray oil. It works pretty well by all accounts. I wouldn't suggest PACKING the rails with grease (if nothing else you'd add a couple hundred lbs to the car and it would run out of every seam/hole on a hot day), but I would spray oil. I fixed a lot of rust in my car and doing so showed me that you can't get in between panels, and that is where the water wicks into and starts the rust in the first place. I haven't decided yet whether I'll use Kroil or HHS2000. I like HHS 2000 because it turns greasy after a few minutes and wouldn't run everywhere, but Kroil is "the oil that creeps"...

Here is Krown's website:

http://www.krown.com/#default

[hls30.com]

Here are some current pictures of a Recently "Fully Restored, better than New" car bought from a "licensed Datsun Restoration Business". These pictures are of the corrective work required after the California/Nevada shop sold the car as being completely restored. I took the pictures on July 2nd 2009.

They seem to fit the gist of this thread.

WIll

Edited July 4, 2009 by hls30.com

[Diseazd]

Buyer beware!!!!

[26th-Z]

This topic is the very reason I had 26th dipped. She was rusting from the inside out and total submersion was the only way to derust her. And I'll take Diseazd's comments a step further and say that the seam sealer used by the factory when these chassis were constructed did not particularly last long. It dried and cracked. Indeed the area of the dog leg inside the wheel arch is a water-catcher and not sealed very well at all. Heres a shot of the chunk I took out.

I used a garden type pump spayer with one of those long plastic wands to spray primer / sealer up inside the chassis as best I could reach. Then after that mess dried, I srubbed the outside down and sealed up all the seams by hand.

Will, in one of your pictures, there is a black strip over the inner fender well where it would touch the outer skin. Is that tar mat insulation?

[hls30.com]

Chris,

It looked like it, but I didn't take a good look or feel. I'm headed back out there on Monday, and I'll give it a thorough examination.

Will

[geezer]

Reading this thread and looking over the pics, I can't help but wonder how well these cars would have resisted rusting if they had originally been E-coated. It is a common practice today and has even evolved into what is described as environmentally friendly. When our Zs were built this method of coating all surfaces inside & out, enclosed unseen surfaces included was in it's infancy. Today, epoxy primer/sealers can be applied by E-coating as well as the newer water based offerings, but it is still a process that remains prohibitively expensive for us hobbiests.