Buying help please!

[KaizokuD]

Hi, im not sure if this is the right forum, im new here, and im going to take a look at a nice 1970 240z on monday. Ive never owned one of these cars nor taken much time to research them, as it was a spur of the moment decision to look at it, but i need your help, i want to know what i should be looking for once im there, what kind of tell tale signs and notorious things about the car that only you guys would know about before purchasing this car. Any help from you would be greatly appreciated. thanks!

[Arne]

Go here: http://www2.zhome.com:81/

Scroll down the left frame until you see the links for "Buying a Z-Car Tips".

[KaizokuD]

this is the car im going to go take a look at tomorrow, guy said it had some floor pan rust but was already replaced how do i know if was a good job or not? i know a good floor pan replacement is important, also what do you think i should offer them for it i think 9,990 is too high i was thinking of offering him 7500 cash what do you think?

http://www.specialtysales.com/1970-datsun-240z--c-1961.htm

[=Enigma=]

Looks good from the outside, but on these cars it's what's underneath that counts most. Normally, the fact that none of the comon rust areas are shown would count as a negative, however commercial dealers typically only display the show pics, or don't know enough about the cars to show the right areas. The more thorough will at least show some shots of the underbody and engine compartment for good measure and full disclosure.

Be sure to check all the common rust areas including but not limited to the following: under battery tray, frame rails inside and outside the engine compartment from front to rear, especially where they meet the firewall, lower radiator support, frame rails underneath the car, rocker panels, floor pans including where they meet the rocker panels, dog legs, rear fenders around the lip, rear hatch ledge near the corners, the hatch hinge area, and all the other common vehicle rust areas.

Take a weak refrigerator magnet with you to check suspect areas that are freshly painted to see if there is excess bondo or filler indicating a poor repair job or missing metal. Don't be afraid to ask questions or ask to talk to the previous owner. Listen carefully to all answers and watch for eye contact or lack thereof. Paranoid perhaps, but I've caught a few liars in my time this way. If you aren't sure the answer was completely truthful, ask again or ask a different way. Better to take the risk of making the seller a little uncomfortable than get ripped off by a scammer. If they're being honest, they won't be uncomfortable answering your questions as long as you're polite.

After inspecting the car, and before starting the haggling process, decide what is the most you are willing to pay for the car, and don't be swayed from this price unless you learn something else along the way that changes the game. Don't feel bad starting out with a reasonable but lowball offer to gauge where the seller's real price point is. And don't step up halfway between your initial offer and the asking price the first time. After making a counter offer or two, discuss the items that concern you and make another offer. How much to haggle is up to you and the seller. I have little patience for this process but usually make an initial offer, counter and final if needed. Final is final. Good luck.

[adamr]

Get it up on a lift. 2 cents