1970 Z Refresh...biting the bullet

[motorman7]

What you have will work........but on the timing chain it should be mark to mark.

I didn't think it was a big deal so I left it. I am assuming all links are created equal. I had probs with the chain tensioner gasket. The one in the 'Ishano/Stone' kit did not match the tensioner body so I had to re-use the old gasket and carefully apply gasket sealer. May see if I can locate a new one here.

[Diseazd]

Most chain tensioners don't come with gaskets any more......the machined surfaces seal themselves even w/o sealant.

[ZSaint]

Motorman: I have a question about your pan... What is the welding on the bottom? Was it repaired as some time? Never seen one like this... Just wondering! (Did I miss something in the posts?)

[motorman7]

Motorman: I have a question about your pan... What is the welding on the bottom? Was it repaired as some time? Never seen one like this... Just wondering! (Did I miss something in the posts?)

From 26th-Z:

"The weld marks on your oil pan signify an early engine; unique to the early cars. A damper plate was welded on to the oil pans because of vibration."

My car was built in 3/70 which was a fairly early build, so I guess they were still modifying parts on the line.

[AZ-240z]

Motorman: I have a question about your pan... What is the welding on the bottom? Was it repaired as some time? Never seen one like this... Just wondering! (Did I miss something in the posts?)

I may be able to give a somewhat accurate answer. The very early 240Z had this oil pan which seemed to develope cracks due to vibration. The welded, or braised, area you are refering to is a factory authorized repair to reinforce the pan until a better one was developed. Others may have more specific information for further clarification.

Dan

Edited June 28, 2009 by AZ-240z
update accuracy of info

[richard1]

and are going through a lot of pain just for a refresh. You deserve praise for doing so.

When I bought mine in 2000, it was perfect down to the last Cad or Zinc plated nut or bolt. Today, it is still nice and I enjoy it as an original that is not anymore perfect as nine years ago but I like it the way it is.....a well maintained full original. I have gone through two full nuts and bolts restorations in the last twenty years with other cars and I will never invest anymore this way. I spent a lot of money and I will not do it again.

My Z is original and I keep it running in the very harsh summer in the desert. I wax the 37 YO original paint three times a year and I am happy. It has a couple of oil drips what I consider normal. for an engine that has never been opened for overhaul. I maintain a Castrol oil change schedule at every 2K and the engine is happy at 128K with just half a quart between the oil change.

I am not anymore the perfectionist I was ten years ago about a perfect show car. I just enjoy the way my Z is as reliable, performing the maintenance myself and expecting to forward to my son as it is.....just a very nice original.

Congratulations for your hard work.

[motorman7]

Thanks for the compliment. Really, this has become a 'labor of love'. I am really enjoying every minute of the cleaning, polishing, assembling, etc. It's very rewarding to see the great results of all the effort. It's also a tremendous learning experience. It has been a long time since I've pulled an engine.

The engine is assembling well and looking good. I spent half of the last two days assembling and the other half cleaning. I cleaned the brake lines and coated them with clear enamel. Also cleaned the transmission bell housing. I will clean the electrtical harness (I am thinking soap and water for that) and then I will be about finished. I should be able to drop the engine back in toward the middle of the week. Below are some pics of the transmission, brake lines, pre-painted (original paint job) motor mounts, and engine build-up.

[=Enigma=]

See what you've done now... You've got me thinking about pulling my engine for paint and a detail for the engine compartment.... Stop the madness!!!

[Carl Beck]

Hi Rich:

That is simply beautiful... what a jewel you have there.

Looking at the picture - I would highly recommend that you get a new set of Tension/Compression Rod bushings and replace the originals. The originals look to be very cracked...

The Tension/Compression Rod plays a critical role in the stability of the front suspension. Left worn and not doing their job, puts a great degree of additional stress on all the other components of the front suspension. The T/C bushings are very easy to replace and I'm pretty sure you can still get them from the Nissan Parts Dept.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[motorman7]

Looking at the picture - I would highly recommend that you get a new set of Tension/Compression Rod bushings and replace the originals. The originals look to be very cracked...

QUOTE]

Yes, and this is the next project after the engine refresh, bushing replacement. There are other areas as well that have some very decayed bushings, the differential mount for one. I will see about getting these ones early as it's probably a bit easier to get to them from the top with the engine out. Thanks for the reminder.

Rich

[motorman7]

I am starting to put things back together. Both sides of engine bay cleaned up nice and are ready for parts. I need to figure out how to clean or replace the yellowed electrical terminal coverings. I am thinking I can buy new ones (somewhere) and recrimp the contacts.

Also, white and blue tape on the Rack steering mechanism. I believe it is factory, but not sure why it is there. Does anyone else have this? Same colors?

Rich

[Diseazd]

Pull the steering rack bushing caps and replace the steering rack bushings.....while you're at it, clean and paint the caps and replace the nuts with new cad nuts. We love to find new projects for you! It looks just fantastic!