The only glitch in the process was trying to take the smog tubes out of the manifold. :disappoin They are rusted in. I could only loosen two, so I have applied Liquid Wrench to the threads and will let them soak and try to loosen them again tomorrow.

Also, any tips and advice from members on this refresh is appreciated.

The only glitch in the process was trying to take the smog tubes out of the manifold. They are rusted in. I could only loosen two, so I have applied Liquid Wrench to the threads and will let them soak and try to loosen them again tomorrow.

I use Aero Kroil -that is Kano Lab's penetrating oil in a spray can - it is the only product that I've seen break the air injection tube nuts loose. Given enough time, and repeated applications - you might get them out with Liquid Wrench... http://Kanolabs.com

After soaking them with Kroil - I put a line wrench {brake line wrench} on the nuts - then a swift blow with a brass hammer - and they usually break lose. You want to assure that the line wrench is a good tight fit - otherwise you can round the nuts off...

If they don't break lose... then you have to heat the manifold around the nuts...

FWIW,

Carl B.

I got all the bolts, washers, screws, hose clips and various other bits back from the platers and the results are amazing. However, I did a lot of prep. The more you do the better they will turn out.

My process.

1. Gave them all a soak in the parts cleaner. Kerosene and solvent.

2. Removed surface rust and remaining dirt with a bench grinder mounted wire wheel

3. Treated any hard to get to rusty parts with rust killer and used a tiny wire brush to get it in.

4. Gave them to my local Datsun club "good bastard" who works at the platers.

5. He wasn't happy with how some of them turned out so he re-plated those.

Good luck.

James

motorman7, don't forget the nuts and washers on the top of the struts, they will look out of place with everything else plated like new if not done.

motorman7, don't forget the nuts and washers on the top of the struts, they will look out of place with everything else plated like new if not done.

Thanks, I probably would have overlooked those. I also need to take off the plate for the windshield washer fluid lines. Will do a careful final check before I take everything in.

Thanks for the heads-up,

Rich

I got all the bolts, washers, screws, hose clips and various other bits back from the platers and the results are amazing. However, I did a lot of prep. The more you do the better they will turn out.

My process.

1. Gave them all a soak in the parts cleaner. Kerosene and solvent.

2. Removed surface rust and remaining dirt with a bench grinder mounted wire wheel

3. Treated any hard to get to rusty parts with rust killer and used a tiny wire brush to get it in.

4. Gave them to my local Datsun club "good bastard" who works at the platers.

5. He wasn't happy with how some of them turned out so he re-plated those.

Good luck.

James

Thanks James! I will begin this process shortly.

Best Regards,

Rich

I use Aero Kroil -that is Kano Lab's penetrating oil in a spray can - it is the only product that I've seen break the air injection tube nuts loose. Given enough time, and repeated applications - you might get them out with Liquid Wrench... http://Kanolabs.com

After soaking them with Kroil - I put a line wrench {brake line wrench} on the nuts - then a swift blow with a brass hammer - and they usually break lose. You want to assure that the line wrench is a good tight fit - otherwise you can round the nuts off...

If they don't break lose... then you have to heat the manifold around the nuts...

FWIW,

Carl B.

I will need to search for a line wrench. The 14mm is too big and 13 too small. 9/16" is as bad as the 14. I will try again tonite to loosen the remaining 4.

Rich

I cleaned up most of the engine bay paint with Maguires cleaner wax this evening. Still have more to go but got about 75% of it cleaned. Still have a lot of little detail areas but not bad.

The engine (Carb side) cleaned up well but took a lot of effort. I used mineral spirits on the paint and greasey areas; 0000 steel wool and lacquer thinner on the corroded aluminum. That came out pretty well but is a lot of work. Probably less than halfway done with this. Was surprised at the poor paint job on the engine block. There are paint drips. Perhaps it was painted on a Monday at the engine shop.

I did get two more of the smog rail fitting loose. Four down, two to go.

It's nice to have a 17 year old son to help. He works in exchange for letting him drive the car on occasion. He did a nice job cleaning the nuts and bolt with wire wheel in prep for zinc plating.

Rich

Hi Rich. Just as we said at the last show, once you start it is impossible to stop. Get some blue engine paint from Les while at his shop, you will be glad that you did. Looking forward to seeing the final product.

Randy.

Hi Randy,

Nice to hear from you again. Funny thing about the engine paint here. I am wondering if this is the norm. Actually, right now I am debating on what to do with this. I almost want to keep it because it is original and so bad. The coverage is pretty complete and there does not seem to be any corrosion set in. I was actually debating on whether to just give it a clear coat instead of the true paint color. As everything else on the car is original, I am now wondering if painting this is a good idea. I will think about it here for a while as I have time and am in no rush. Will spend time prepping the zinc parts and continuing the clean. I hope to get my zinc parts looking as good as yours.

Best Regards,

Rich

If you have re-plated the bolts/nuts/parts - and cleaned the aluminum up - - you may as well re-paint the block the original color.

FWIW,

Carl B.

Rich. I understand you hesitation. I had it when I started my refresh. Remember it is only "original" once. If you start replating your Z it will no longer be original. And the bad exisiting paint on the block will make it look like you scimped on the "refresh". Been there, done that. Your choice, but just trying to give you another viewpoint.

You will still be able to claim all original parts, or mostly so....I do!

Yes, that makes sense. I will go ahead and 'refresh' the block with paint. I guess it just had that 'ugly puppy' attraction, that's why I was hesitant.

Thanks for the feedback