Hi

anyone have any info on fitting a rb30 or rb25 in a 240Z

Thanks

Ash

Ivan,

Could you list what the part numbers correspond to? I.E. xxxx = oil pan, yyyyy=engine mount, etc..

Thanks,

Bob

11110 - Oil sump

15050 - Oil pickup

15200G - Oil pickup O Ring

11232 - RH Mount

11233 - LH Mount

11220 - Rubber mounting (LH and RH)

Hi, it's me, that Nick someone who is responsible for the RB30ET conversion in that blue 240Z.

May I suggest you go with an RB30DET (i.e. RB25DET top end on a RB30ET bottom end). This makes for quite a good conversion.

If you're worried abot it fitting under the bonnet, I have a simple solution. Why not cut up the standard RB25DET & a RB26DETT intake manifolds at there bases & join the 2 main pieces together. Then mount the throttle body at the front of the GTR manifold, this will give you all the clearance you need.

Anyway, if you decide to go this way, I have an almost complete RB25DET top end with the GTR manifold mod almost done, all you need is a good RB30ET bottom end. This will end up going in my 2nd project car, a 240K if it doen't sell.

Oh, by the way, my 1st project car which has been going since Nov '99 is a 4 cylinder 240Z.

Hope this info helps.

Nick.

main reason most people go for the rb26dett is because this is nissans race motor her eis a comparison

rb26 rb25

can be built to 600hp only to 400hp on stock internals

listed but more than 280hp only 250hp

9000 grand redline i think dont hold me 8000grand

more aftermarket parts less aftermarket

expensive about mid priced

no bonnet clearence issue bonnet clearence issue

there are a lil more to but in my opinion the rb26dett is worth the extra money unless you are on a strict budget in that case by all means go for the rb25det

I've never heard of a bonnet clearance issue with the rb25...are you sure...anyway, I would probably go with the rb25 due to the fact that a) Alot cheaper (about half the price), There are more of them, c) The aftermarket parts are just as plentiful (contrary to popular belief), d) It'll make within a whisker less power when pushed than the rb26 [due to capacity]), and you only have one turbo to worry about, rather than the two on the rb26 (which means cheaper, only one to rebuild, less pipes, less hassle)...I'm not saying that the rb26 isn't good, cause it is that little bit better, but if you had an extra couple of grand to spend on the motor because you got one with 100cc less capacity, you could make it twice as powerful as the rb26!

The power issue only really comes into play in the instance of chasing 700+ hp, where you'll be spending mega bucks and it probably wouldn't be a Z, but a purpose built streeter...

Just my 2c...

Cheers ppl!

Almost forgot, the rb25 I have seen with 510hp, stock internals...

I personally wouldn't put one in my Z anyway, just giving my opinion for the average person who doesn't have $30k to spend on an engine conversion.

Cheers ppl!

well i think the issue with the clearence because the intake goes over top of the motor(i think) but somewhere i have heard that there is a different manifold that you can use but go figure

wow 510 on the internals hes pushing it if it is an rb25

the main reason beside as you said capacity for the rb26detts strength is the fact that it is actually nissans race motor, obviously tuned down but still with massive components

wow if you know where the rb25det after market parts pm me and tell me i cant find any... seriously man that might chang my mind a lil on my swap

I might resurrect this thread, save starting another.

Although Im more interested in the RB30. Yes we all know that the RB20DET and RB25DET are more powerfull etc, but they arent NA, and you cant pick em up at the wreckers for $200.

Is their really any point (purely in power terms) of building up an L28 over an RB30??

Why pay hundreds (or more) dollars in stroker kits when you can get the complete stroked motor out of a VL commodore !

From the little reading I've done on the RB30, they dont rev well, and they dont breeathe well. So, cam work,valve work and port work may be in order, this is something that a lot of us would do to the L28 anyway...

Surely the stock RB30 intake is not as bad as the ZX. It even has a hotwire MAF (55 or so??), and a chippable ECU !!

How much heavier is the RB30 over the L28 ? This is the only downside I can see against the RB30 (oh and of course its a bit taller). But unless its enormous than it wouldnt be soo bad.

Speaking purely in terms of making a faster Zed car for less money, I can't see why the RB30 is not a better option over the L28. Of course anybody putting a straight six NA realises the power restrictions, so thats not really an argument.

Well you'd be restricting what kind of competition you can run your Z in. Why go through the hassle of engineering the car setting up new wiring and bastardizing a Z when your not really gonna gain all that much. Unless of course you go Turbo RB30.

For me building an L28 stroker is perfect for insurance and for originality.

Not sayign the RB30 is not a good idea just saying the grass isn't always greener.

Well you'd be restricting what kind of competition you can run your Z in. Why go through the hassle of engineering the car setting up new wiring and bastardizing a Z when your not really gonna gain all that much. Unless of course you go Turbo RB30.

For me building an L28 stroker is perfect for insurance and for originality.

Not sayign the RB30 is not a good idea just saying the grass isn't always greener.

I am with you Gav - I was thinking RBxxDE or RBxxDET sometime ago but I have just purchased an import L28 F54/N42 combo again for the same reasons mounts are easy etc and the $$ I would spend on RB conversion will go a long way into getting more HP from the L28. This is just a personal opinion. I even have heard of a 3.1 L28TT pulling close to 1000hp (In a drag car in Japan - and I would assume not very reliable ie need to pulled and checked after each meeting....$$$)

Cheers

Mike

Well you'd be restricting what kind of competition you can run your Z in. Why go through the hassle of engineering the car setting up new wiring and bastardizing a Z when your not really gonna gain all that much.

That's why i said "purely in power terms".Im not too worried about bastardising a Zed, I've got a 1JZGTE sitting beside my 260Z waiting to go in one day :-) And no the RB30 would not be all that much better than an L28 stock for stock. But when you start modifying you don't have to worry about that $1K+ for the stroker.

By all means if you can get an LD28 crank, Rods and pistons for cheap then I would do it as well. You can buy RB mounts for less than $150, and wiring, well its all attached to the engine.

BTW when I said "Speaking purely in terms of making a faster Zed car for less money, I can't see why the RB30 is not a better option over the L28", I meant it in the sense that if anyone does know why, then I would love to hear from them.

The RB series of engines are the nex generation over the L series. Therefore, more refined and efficient, giving more HP and better fuel efficiency. Plus, better built for unleaded. (The lead replacement stuff is just plain nasty) There should be a good lot of aftermarket options here compared to the L28. Downside, fuel injection, so you are up for an easy grand plus for new pumps, surge tanks, filters, regulators, lines etc. But makes the turbo option much easier at a later date. If you went for the RB30, then once set up, work on it rather than another transplant with the Toyota motor and a new bunch of headaches.