Priming Oil pump/replacement

[hogie]

I have finally got the wiring sorted out well enough to get the engine to crank over and fire through the ignition switch, however I have a couple of questions concerning oiling before I really try to get the engine up and running.

I can't locate my oil sender wire, so to see if I was getting any pressure I pulled the sender out and didnt get any oil pouring out as I cranked the engine.

I probaly cranked it 7 or 8 seconds a couple of times in a row. How long should it take to get anything? Other than gutting a distributor and using the shaft on a drill is there a good way to prime it?

I have several pumps laying around and may replace this one just to see if that will fix anything. Does the engine really have to be at tdc? I know that really isn't hard to do, but I wouldnt think it would be necesary if everything will just line up anyways.

Thanks again

[Phred]

Hogie,

If you're concerrned about the oil pressure, by all means, prime it with an old dist shaft. I used to have a shaft I cut down just for priming an engine prior to firing. To remove any dought about sender, or interior gauge calibration, buy a reasonably priced aftermarket pressure gauge at your local supplier and plumb it into the side of the block where the sender goes. Then you can monitor the pressure as you crank on the drill. Remember, the shaft has to have the drive gear removed by lathe, or grinding, or sorcery. I drive the shaft with a slow turning 1/2 in. drill motor, and have a helper slowly turn the crank/pulley bolt. This will guarantee all oil passages are flowing oil to the important parts. Also, you can remove the rocker cover and verify the spray bar (if you have one) has all holes open and squirting.

Phred

[hogie]

So slower is better than faster? I have a spare shaft around...and a grinder so that is definately an option.

[Walter Moore]

I guess you could in theory prime the system that way, but you still have to remove the oil pump to replace the distributor shaft, which mostly negates the whole "priming" thing doesn't it?

It might be easier to just pull the spark plugs, and disconnect the fuel line, then crank the engine to prime the system and check the operation of the oil pump.

Oh, and on the TDC issue, the distributor will only go on the drive shaft in one position. It is REALLY easy to get that shaft in wrong. I have done it. The distributor does not have enough adjustment to allow you to compensate for the drive shaft being off by even a single tooth.

Personally, I bought a new oil pump when I put the engine back together, just to be sure.

[hogie]

Wow, I wouldn't have thought it would be that picky. Essentially I already have it set to not actually fire off. So cranking it over isn't a problem. I was just worried about it not even moving any oil the bit of cranking that has been done

[Phred]

"I guess you could in theory prime the system that way, but you still have to remove the oil pump to replace the distributor shaft, which mostly negates the whole "priming" thing doesn't it?"

Walter,

Removing the distributor shaft does not NEGATE anytyhing. The method stated, primes the oiling system, period. The purpous being to assure the lines have been filled, pressure has been verified, lobes are oiled, and no leaks are present. If you want to fire a new engine (without oil squirting on the cam lobes) or an engine you suspect may have a problem, without pre-oiling, have at it. Pre-oiling is mechanical (and mental) insurance.

Phred

[hogie]

If it makes any difference I coated the cam in assembly lube about a month ago