Humm, let us know how that goes. I'll be interested to know if lowering a 30 amp fuse to a 20 amp fuse solves the problem. Should be a valuable educational exercise. Also, you may want to give things a try after each fix so you know exactly which fix actually solved the problem.

Humm, let us know how that goes. I'll be interested to know if lowering a 30 amp fuse to a 20 amp fuse solves the problem. Should be a valuable educational exercise. Also, you may want to give things a try after each fix so you know exactly which fix actually solved the problem.

I dont have a 20a on hand but i think imma leave that one blank and see if it is gonna blow the link ; i am almost out of links so i am gonna have to gamble this one

When and if all else fails, my sister has had electrical work done on her Infinity I-30 at Chuy's Auto Electric they are located in East Los Angeles, near Cal State L A and she highly recomends them....! their number is (323) 264-1704.

O man.. so i replaced it with the correct fuse and it still blew! this time it blew as soon as i stopped "starting" it . It didnt blow when i was trying to start it but rather after.

What specifically is blowing, the fusible link or the 30/20 amp fuse, or both? I can't really tell from the posts above.

FYI, according to this site:

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html

Fusible links are more like 40, 50 and 80 amps, so if that's blowing then lowering the "popping point" of your fuse from 30 to 20 amps would have no chance of working. What you learned from this little experiment is that your fuse has absolutely nothing to do with the fact that the fusible link is blowing. Which fusible link is blowing, the black one? That one is for the alternator/ignition relay. I would stop focusing on the fusebox and start tracing the wires again from the fusible link through to the ignition and the alternator. I have a feeling your going to find a problem somewhere in that path.

What's interesting to me is this comment you made:

bad coil ballast and a half broken igntion relay (ground was ripped off the casing).

Are you absolutely sure you fixed the ignition relay correctly? If you didn't, that may very well be where you're shorting out.

What specifically is blowing, the fusible link or the 30/20 amp fuse, or both? I can't really tell from the posts above.

FYI, according to this site:

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html

Fusible links are more like 40, 50 and 80 amps, so if that's blowing then lowering the "popping point" of your fuse from 30 to 20 amps would have no chance of working. What you learned from this little experiment is that your fuse has absolutely nothing to do with the fact that the fusible link is blowing. Which fusible link is blowing, the black one? That one is for the alternator/ignition relay. I would stop focusing on the fusebox and start tracing the wires again from the fusible link through to the ignition and the alternator. I have a feeling your going to find a problem somewhere in that path.

What's interesting to me is this comment you made:

bad coil ballast and a half broken igntion relay (ground was ripped off the casing).

Are you absolutely sure you fixed the ignition relay correctly? If you didn't, that may very well be where you're shorting out.

The fuse that was in place of a 20amp was replaced by a 30 amp by the previous owner. So I changed it back to the correct amp.

The one link that keeps blowing is the EFI/ IGN relay

And the bad coil ballast and ignition relay is replaced with a MSD blaster 2 coil and a OEM replacement Ign Relay. The relay comes with a external ground wire. Its short about 3 inches so i had to attach it to the closest possible screw (which is the bracket screw that holds it up)

Edited June 27, 200915 yr by beebeecivic

If this were my car I'd take pictures or make drawings of the coil and relay connections and unplug all of them and then try to start the car and see if the fuse blows. Sounds like the 12 v feed to the coil is getting grounded? That would be my guess.

If this were my car I'd take pictures or make drawings of the coil and relay connections and unplug all of them and then try to start the car and see if the fuse blows. Sounds like the 12 v feed to the coil is getting grounded? That would be my guess.

Which wire exaclty is the 12v feed?

I am going to upgrade the fusible link before I attempt on doing this.. I cant afford anymore fusible links

either one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-Gauge-Fused-Distribution-Block/dp/B001IQIW7I/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1246072869&sr=1-9

or

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/1333014/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046

Edited June 27, 200915 yr by beebeecivic

Drawings/notes should dfinitely help. Then take the drawings and compare to a wiring diagram for your specific model. The drawings will educate you about your car and general car electricals too.

Edited June 27, 200915 yr by TomoHawk

Alrite, so i have been MIA for a past few days; installed maxi-fuse upgrade and bought a new coil wire (mine looked fried at the end). The car wont short now yay!

but the car still wont start; but alteast i have won half the battle

THE Z STARTED!!! woooo

Alrite so i have new problem; my RPM gauge , fuel gauge, speedo , and temperature gauge and head lights dont work. But the fuel pressure works.

Edited July 14, 200915 yr by beebeecivic