rxsleeper Posted July 10, 2009 Share #25 Posted July 10, 2009 Sounds like that must have been fun to figure out. If anyone else has Bilsteins, just tell GC and they machine out the inside of the spring hat to allow room for the larger Bilstein strut for you and provide you with spacers to fit the strut shaft and the 5/8" monoball.FWIW, you will need to still grind the lower "corners" off of the strut nut so that it will seat properly on the monoball with the GC set up. They will send you an instruction sheet for a BMW that details the same thing.Preith, I am running the exact same set up as you but w/o a rear bar on newly built struts. No spacer needed in front and a 1 1/4" spacer in the rear to get the insert up high enough for the gland nut to lock down. I dropped almost 2 seconds at Nashville last month on 3 year old, rock hard hoosiers. Corner weights were great and with my fat A^% in the car got cross weights to 50/50. I am going to add a little more toe out to the front of the caras 1/16" wasn't enought for the slower sections. Otherwise the car felt great without the rear bar.Coop, neat way to get your travel back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxsleeper Posted July 10, 2009 Share #26 Posted July 10, 2009 Forgot to include a poor photo but you can see the difference in strut length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted July 10, 2009 Share #27 Posted July 10, 2009 (edited) Preith, I am running the exact same set up as you but w/o a rear bar on newly built struts. No spacer needed in front and a 1 1/4" spacer in the rear to get the insert up high enough for the gland nut to lock down. I dropped almost 2 seconds at Nashville last month on 3 year old, rock hard hoosiers. Corner weights were great and with my fat A^% in the car got cross weights to 50/50. I am going to add a little more toe out to the front of the caras 1/16" wasn't enought for the slower sections. Otherwise the car felt great without the rear bar. 2 seconds, great to hear! The real test for myself will be next weekend @ Blackhawk, can't wait! The first event on the Bilsteins was at a new track (for me), but I appeared to be running faster than my nemesis - a wild Ford of England '72 Escort with a twin cam Lotus F2 motor. I'll also be on old rock hard tires deliberately (victoracers at that). In my case, the car is not loose with the rear bar either. For anyone interested, here's a vid from the aforementioned race - from Bill's perspective in the ex-Mountain Motorsports ITS 240. Unfortunately he was just a bit too far back to catch my duel with the Escort, just a dot in the distance. I missed the grid call and started a lap down (don't ask why :mad:) , doh! Ran with the escort for about 5 laps but let up after that, what's the point? Edited July 10, 2009 by preith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diseazd Posted July 15, 2009 Author Share #28 Posted July 15, 2009 (edited) Here's an update on the camber plate installation......I didn't dare put 'em on top......didn't want to take the verbal abuse from you guys!! Will post the pics of the coilovers and brakes later. Thanks for your advice. Guy Edited July 15, 2009 by Diseazd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
five&dime Posted July 19, 2009 Share #29 Posted July 19, 2009 Here are some more photos of my dad's car.<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3736890236/" title="IMG_3562 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2423/3736890236_5ddb9bd0be_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_3562" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3736096477/" title="IMG_3573 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2427/3736096477_2d28d4697a_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_3573" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3736097643/" title="IMG_3565 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3502/3736097643_175071d2c7_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_3565" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3736891598/" title="IMG_3566 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3440/3736891598_8a4b9ba637_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_3566" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3736099151/" title="IMG_3567 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3478/3736099151_2698271e53_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_3567" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3736099943/" title="IMG_3568 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2439/3736099943_27d904df78_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_3568" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3736100565/" title="IMG_3569 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2619/3736100565_ddcec11a06_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_3569" /></a> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diseazd Posted July 20, 2009 Author Share #30 Posted July 20, 2009 (edited) WOW!!! What a difference the new Willwood's and coilovers make.....you can get the car right down on the ground and when you stop, your face feels like it keeps on going! Thanks Jamie and Russ! Edited July 20, 2009 by Diseazd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricB Posted July 20, 2009 Share #31 Posted July 20, 2009 (edited) Hi guysi wanted to add something to this discussion...i am in the process of doing the same mod to my 73 as well.have the struts sectioned and the new perch welded on.Need to worry about the top of the strut towers now as well.it's good to hear you recommend XXX 1/8" plate for the reinforcing plate.XXXanyways, my question here is regarding hubs...can i re-use my 240hubs on the 280 struts or do I need to swap those out to 280 as well?Thanks guys,-e Edited July 21, 2009 by EricB I mis-typed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmortensen Posted July 20, 2009 Share #32 Posted July 20, 2009 it's good to hear you recommend 4 thicknesses of 1/8" plate.I was going to do just a single one...Not sure what you're talking about, but there is no need for 1/2" thick steel on any part of the Z chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricB Posted July 21, 2009 Share #33 Posted July 21, 2009 Jonsorry. I mis-typed. I was referring to the post you have on the previous page about making 4 reinforcing plates from the template and putting them on the underside of the strut tower... my bad.regarding the hubs though, can I use 240Z hubs on 280z spindle/strut housings?Or does everything need to be 280z up front for caliper/rotor to line up right?Thanks,-e Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmortensen Posted July 21, 2009 Share #34 Posted July 21, 2009 I know the hubs have different offsets. Not sure if the caliper brackets have different offsets. I would think the easy thing to do is get some 280 hubs and use 280 brake parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diseazd Posted July 21, 2009 Author Share #35 Posted July 21, 2009 When I ordered my brakes from Arizona Z Dave sent me hardware that worked with 240z hubs. You need to specify which hubs you've got when you order because of the different offsets. I bought the Willwoods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmortensen Posted July 21, 2009 Share #36 Posted July 21, 2009 When I ordered my brakes from Arizona Z Dave sent me hardware that worked with 240z hubs. You need to specify which hubs you've got when you order because of the different offsets. I bought the Willwoods.Do the 240 hub parts fit a 280 strut though? The caliper mount (integral to the strut housing) has to be inline too, which is why it is easier/safer to stick with 280 parts or 240 parts, and not mix and match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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