1970 for sale

[240dkw]

Yeah, but I have to say, a mid-February visit to Phoenix kind of sounds more appealing...

Ehh...I'll still get to cow-town on business. Make sure I get my quota of good Alberta beef...

careful, mid feb might be in Hamilton

[bigoak]

Hehe...good for me...I just accepted a job back in Toronto...moving back down the 401...

[240dkw]

Here are a bunch of photos, I am very happy with the car.

Ron: the one photo shows why I could you sell the spare tire tub I had.

Notice the wire holder on the motor mount, grease cup on steering rack, early alt, very clean frame rail

Dan

[240dkw]

The rugs are faded but hardly any wear. Are these seatbelt buckles original?

[240dkw]

nice repair dogleg panels

ashtray has never been used

nice "realistic antenna" not stock but period correct replacement

check out the speaker

[240dkw]

some pics of the carbs & motor

[Mike B]

Are these seatbelt buckles original?

Yes, those are the correct seatbelts for a 1970. I think the Choke knob is from a 260Z though and the coin cup should be further back on the console, not in front of the choke (may it is loose and you just set it there?).

-Mike

[geezer]

Yep, very solid tire tub on this one. I agree with the "good outweighing the bad". It looks like mostly cosmetic cleanup and refreshing for the most part until you get to the rear quarter area. I think I would forget the dogleg patch and get the Tabco outer wheelhousing and Tabco rear quarter repair panel and an outer rocker panel. That will take care of your major rust damage the easiest and most cost effective way. You could start searching for genuine Nissan replacement panels but it would be more time consuming and costly. I used the Tabco parts for the same rust damage. How is the other side? It does seem a little odd how the driver's rear quarter deterorated so badly but other areas look very solid. We can tell by the pic that it has had a previous rear quarter patch. Very nice project car overall at a good price. Good luck Dan and have fun with it!

[240dkw]

Yes, those are the correct seatbelts for a 1970. I think the Choke knob is from a 260Z though and the coin cup should be further back on the console, not in front of the choke (may it is loose and you just set it there?).

-Mike

No it is not loose, looks like one of the PO's moved it there and put a padded arm rest on. I have a series 1 console in good shape that I can use.

[240dkw]

Yep, very solid tire tub on this one. I agree with the "good outweighing the bad". It looks like mostly cosmetic cleanup and refreshing for the most part until you get to the rear quarter area. I think I would forget the dogleg patch and get the Tabco outer wheelhousing and Tabco rear quarter repair panel and an outer rocker panel. That will take care of your major rust damage the easiest and most cost effective way. You could start searching for genuine Nissan replacement panels but it would be more time consuming and costly. I used the Tabco parts for the same rust damage. How is the other side? It does seem a little odd how the driver's rear quarter deterorated so badly but other areas look very solid. We can tell by the pic that it has had a previous rear quarter patch. Very nice project car overall at a good price. Good luck Dan and have fun with it!

Ron it came with the Tabco rear quarter and rocker, I just need a outer wheel housing. I agree, for how bad the drivers rear is the rest is very good, I think in part it is because the previous patch was not done right and let the rust continue. The other side has a patch as well, but much smaller.

Here is a photo of the car itself.

Dan

[240dkw]

The first thing you want to do is compare the original engine serial number on the Data Tag - to the engine serial number on the block. Ask for clear pictures of both..

With a VIN of HLS30 06513 that car would have had a build date of 07/70. Not really what most of us think of as an "Early 70" - - more a mid-year 70.

If it was built in July of 70 - it most likely arrived in North America around Aug or Sept. Most likely sold as a 1971 Model Year - although it could have been sold as a 1970 Model Year...

True that the very early Z's into Canada were not equipped with the Air Pump, nor gasoline vapor recovery systems... but for the most part they were built in 69 or the first three months of 1970.

The original engine serial numbers for July of 1970 build dates seem to run mostly in the L24-94xx to L24-97xxx range. Although that is not absolute..

To tell you the truth - I personally can't see enough clear details related to the SU's to tell much about them..

Could be an earlier engine swapped into a later car.. ie a non-matching number car... Still worth the price if there is indeed very little rust.

FWIW,

Carl B.

Carl: I have looking over the car and it is a number matching car, the build date is 7/70 and the motor number is 9673. It was last registered as a 1970 in 1997. It has no air pump, has a single pulley and no vapor tank. As far as I can tell the carbs are original. They are a four screw set with no drains on the float bowls. As well, it seems to have a Type A 5 speed. Once I have the motor out and can count the gear ratios I will know more about what type of tranny it is.

Dan