Welcome to the Wonderful world of the Z car. And when you get it all sorted out, you'll be an officianoto on 260Z wiring and others will come to YOU for a change....

Before you start tearing into the dash, Physically pull each of the bulbs stated before (7 small dash bulbs, 4 side markers, 2 front marker lights and the top bulbs on both taillights) test the bulbs, inspect the housings and the sockets and associated wiring around them. After you do this, you'll know that each bulb and area has been fully inspected and good. ALSO!!! test the green wire associated with each bulb to see if the problem is in that bulb.

You never know what you'll find. Could be something simple and you won't have to tear the whole dash out either.

email me for that diagram

Dave

all fixed!

You can't leave us like that! What was the problem and what was the fix?

Well I don;t have a glove box lamp and some some plugged the connector together and hide in under the harness!

I am having a similar problem, well actually haven't had any problems til last night. Have a 70 240Z hadn't driven it for about a month cause it is so blasted hot in Arizona. The instrument cluster and tail and side lights blew when headlights were turned on driving home last night. When I got home I checked the fuse and it had indeed blown, replaced the fuse and the lights went on and off just fine--then I started the engine and turned on the headllights and zap it blew the fuse--did it twice cause I am stupid. I have a brand new headlight combo switch put on a couple of years ago and also have the Motorsport fuse box. What could be causing it to blow the fuse with the engine started and not with it off?

Ward Fogelsanger

Sorry for bringing up such an old thread, but I have this exact problem in my 73 240z with the 9pin connector.

A lil background: chevy v8, gm 3 wire alternator

A long while ago (maybe 6 months) my stock 240z radio, heater/ac fan unit, and console switches(rear window defogger) started acting funny. They would turn on fine after I start the car cold. Then, after about 5-15 minutes of driving, these items would go off. Recently, they are just always off.

Then, a few days ago, my driving/parking lights failed. I flipped the combo switch off and on, and the driving lights came back on. Not sure what happened. Then, yestereday, all of the driving/parking lights failed. Fuse box in the car is OK. I found a fused wire leading into the firewall (its not an oem wire I don't think) with the fuse housing broken. I replaced this, and the lights still did not turn on. I took the column cover off and found my 9pin connector. I put a 12v power source to the green/blue wire and the lights worked using the combo switch. Then, I took the power wire off and started my car, flipped the lights on, and was dazzled/amazed/WTF to see that the lights work. What gives?

great now they don't work anymore

so can i just put a 12volt fused wire straight from the battery/alternator to the green/blue wire on the combo switch? What amperage fuse would I use?

Edited June 23, 201113 yr by wilson_wwsc

I know this is an old thread, but where can I pick up a combo switch for a '78 280z? mine just went totally out last night and I have to drive home @ 11pm with my hazards on. I used to be able to get the lights to work by jiggling the switch a bit but it's really broken now.

I can rebuild your switch. OR I can sell you a rebuilt one. I'll need to know exactly what your switch looks like. I have a few 100 switches from 69' to 78', so I'll need some pictures to know which one to pull from the shelves.

I'm more familiar with the earlier year switches, so help me help yuou and I can get on it for ya.

PM me for prices and with your pics and info.

Dave

I know this is an old thread, but where can I pick up a combo switch for a '78 280z? mine just went totally out last night and I have to drive home @ 11pm with my hazards on. I used to be able to get the lights to work by jiggling the switch a bit but it's really broken now.

While Dave can rebuild your switch, it may be an issue with the green/yellow wire burning up at the connector. I've seen that on a couple of cars. It still wouldn't hurt to have Dave rebuild it, but he may have to repair the wiring, too.

In a PM, Dee mentioned that the switch is now "Hard to even turn" which tells me the contact plate has slipped or the slide bullet has finally broke away or slipped due to overheating. There are 4 little tongs that guide the bullet as it slides on the contact, if one breaks (only about 1mm x 2mm tall) then the bullet will fall out of it's holder and no longer work.

And if the wiring is bad on the switch side, I'll definately replace them on a wire by wire basis. But you're right, I would check the wiring on the other side of the connectors (dash harness) as well.

Dave