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Round tops: Update and questions!


g9m3c

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Alright, here's some pics for ya. I haven't gotten the air cleaners quite completed yet, so no pics of those. Maybe next week. ;)

DSC00340.jpg

DSC00341.jpg

Big thanks to Ztherapy! These carbs cured everything. My 4,000 rpm+ stall is gone, my random "die and not want to be cranked again" problem is gone, and I no longer have to play with the throttle for 10 minutes to get the car to idle when it's cold. Heck, I barely hit the switch this morning before it fired up into a nice, pretty clean idle........................without once touching the choke lever. ROFL

-Grant

Edited by g9m3c
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I would suggest that you not put the throttle springs right through the heat shield. Use S hooks or the way I did it was drill two 1/8" holes get two cotter pins 1/8" and put those in the holes. Then put your throttle springs into the eye of the cotter pin. Looks nice and will save the loop on the spring.

That cotter pin idea is a great idea. With just a hole in the heat shield I'm thinking the raw edge would saw through the spring loop in no time. Give the man a kewpie doll!! If I use your idea for others, will I owe you a royalty??

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That cotter pin idea is a great idea. With just a hole in the heat shield I'm thinking the raw edge would saw through the spring loop in no time. Give the man a kewpie doll!! If I use your idea for others, will I owe you a royalty??

I hope I don't. After all, how much royalty could he demand for using a $.15 product? ROFL

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That's a beautiful setup, Bruce and Steve are the best!

You have more than offset any royalty incurred by the timely information you have provided by this posting. And if spending only $.15 is bothering you, I can also recommend that with the 1/8 cotter pin, you also purchase a 8-32 machine screw nut and two 1/8 x 1 fender washers. Place the 8-32 nut under the eye of the cotter pin then stack the first washer. Place through the heat shield. Then put on the second washer and bend the ears over. It is much easier to do this with the heat shield removed.

And as a favor to me, stay away from the big boxes. Shop your local hardware store.

Thank you

Alan

Central True Value Hardware

260Z 2+2 1974 with three screw carbs. Enhanced by Bruce at Z Therapy

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Not to put too fine a point on this credit thing....

I do the counseling up front to help new customers order what they need rather than what they feel they need. I hate to see customers waste money on things I know wont solve problems when something else might.

Steve Epperly, the owner, builds all the carbs so if kudos are to be tossed about concerning product quality throw the flowers Steve's way.

He and I work together well and have played Datsuns for years.

My job with ZTherapy is really rewarding as I enjoy helping people with their carb problems and you all seem to have them or my phone wouldn't ring. We further enjoy the fact that our product goes out and stays out and our last job tends to seel our next job via the muk luk telegraph.

Anyway thanks for the kind words....

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Not to put too fine a point on this credit thing....

I do the counseling up front to help new customers order what they need rather than what they feel they need. I hate to see customers waste money on things I know wont solve problems when something else might.

Steve Epperly, the owner, builds all the carbs so if kudos are to be tossed about concerning product quality throw the flowers Steve's way.

He and I work together well and have played Datsuns for years.

My job with ZTherapy is really rewarding as I enjoy helping people with their carb problems and you all seem to have them or my phone wouldn't ring. We further enjoy the fact that our product goes out and stays out and our last job tends to seel our next job via the muk luk telegraph.

Anyway thanks for the kind words....

Whoever is behind what, I am very pleased with your company so far. I was hesitant, to say the least, of dropping $730 on a set of carbs for a car I paid $500 for. LOL But, to me, I bought more than a set of carbs. I bought driveability. I bought enjoyment. This is the first time that I've ever been truly able to enjoy my car since I've had it (almost a year.) So far, I've driven it about 50 miles or so, and haven't had a single hiccup yet. That's leaps and bounds ahead of the flat tops. I was even able to lay a couple of black marks on dry pavement today. With the flat-tops, it would sputter and die as soon as I popped the clutch and gave it the beans. Even on a light launch, it would sputter out. Nothing but flawlessness with these, though. The best part is I don't even have them fully tuned yet. :cool:

Thanks again!

-Grant

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Grant,

Nice work. glad it's running well. Noticed the plugs you used in your exhaust manifold to fill the holes left when you removed the air gallery tubes. What did you use?

Thanks,

Bob

Metric oil drain plugs. I forgot the size and thread pitch. They were easy to match up at the parts store, though. I guess the "correct" thing to use would have been IF (inverted flare) plugs, but the parts store didn't have 6 of those at the time. :)

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Oh yea, just remembered a question I had.

My choke cables were obviously not designed to be used with these carburetors. They used the clamp things on the flat tops, and not what is on my new carbs. Is there any way to make these cables work, or do I need to source other ones? If so, which ones?

You can see the ends of the cables in one of the pics above.

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Since I have a 73, I had the same challenges as you did. You've done a great job cleaning up your engine bay. :cool:

If you can find the clamps, or fab a clamp/sandwhich of sorts, that would be ideal.

I probably could make something but I ended up using simple zip ties with cool loops on the end. Surprising to me, it's actually worked out quite well. I also couldn't use the original stay on the valve cover because it kinked the cable too much. I improvised something else there too. That is one of the few things I don't have any pictures of but I'll take some tomorrow when I can and post back.

I also took the opportunity to pull the cable out of the sleeve to clean and coat it with a light, white grease. It did wonders for the cable operation on my car. The cable will pull out from under the choke lever (requires propping up the center console)

Edited by 70 Cam Guy
too many typos
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Since I have a 73, I had the same challenges as you did. You've done a great job cleaning up your engine bay. :cool:

If you can find the clamps, or fab a clamp/sandwhich of sorts, that would be ideal.

I probably could make something but I ended up using simple zip ties with cool loops on the end. Surprising to me, it's actually worked out quite well. I also couldn't use the original stay on the valve cover because it kinked the cable too much. I improvised something else there too. That is one of the few things I don't have any pictures of but I'll take some tomorrow when I can and post back.

I also took the opportunity to pull the cable out of the sleeve to clean and coat it with a light, white grease. It did wonders for the cable operation on my car. The cable will pull out from under the choke lever (requires propping up the center console)

Thanks! I just finished watching the "Just Su's" dvd, and Scott mentioned using lawnmower throttle cable for choke cables. I might look into that as well.

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