The choke cable that attaches to the front carburetor is not returning to where it should after the choke is pulled back and pushed forward again. I tried lubricating all of the joints that the cable triggers on the front carburetor, but it still isn't fully returning to normal; this causes the car to idle higher than it should and will flood the car when it's turned off(unless I open up the hood and push the lever back to normal). Anyone know how I can fix this issue?

The "Just SU's" DVD shows how to solve your problem.....you simply bend the bracket that attaches the nozzle to the bottom of the carburetor with a pair of needle nose plyers to relieve tension.

Have the fuel hoses between the float bowls and the jets ever been changed? I had a similar problem to you. The aftermarket fuel hose which was thick, stiff and wanted to straighten would fight the spring that tried to return the jet to the fully up position. The Nissan hoses are thin and flexible, and are made in a U shape so they didn't put any downward force on the jet.

I also gave the whole return spring assembly a clean. There was a lot of muck around that assembly which kept it from moving freely (and when you screw it all back together, don't do it up too tight or it will jam, use a bit of loctite).

Let us know how you go.

Eric

Lube your choke cable or replace it?

The early factory choke cables were originally twisted wire strands contained in the plastic sheath housing the cable. These were later replaced by Nissan with single wire cables, as the original multi-strand cables had a tendancy to kink and separate within the plastic cable housing.

I agree with 26th-z. If lube doesn't solve the problem, most likely replacement, especially if it is the original multi-strand cable, may well be the answer.

Lube your choke cable or replace it?

agreed, start simple. Does the choke linkage on the carb move freely with the cable disconnected? If it does, remove the choke cable, clean it, lube with some light grease, and re-install. I used some light, white grease (it doesn't take much) and it made a big difference.

The grease in our garage is Lubriplate No 105, and there's a NAPA logo on it. It also works great for tail gate hinges, and striker plates

Can anyone give me the part number for a new choke cable assembly for a '71? I can't locate it in any of the part diagrams.

Can anyone give me the part number for a new choke cable assembly for a '71? I can't locate it in any of the part diagrams.

18410-E4601 from 3/71 - 8/71

18410-E8800 from 9/71 - 1/72

-Mike

Actually, my 240z is called a 1971, but it was really made in december of '70. Can you give me the part number for the earlier choke cable? And, under what category in the diagrams did you find the choke cable?

Actually, my 240z is called a 1971, but it was really made in december of '70. Can you give me the part number for the earlier choke cable? And, under what category in the diagrams did you find the choke cable?

Engine - section 16 - Accelerator pedal, Choke & throttle control

The parts manual shows lots of different part numbers for the choke assemblies, with overlapping date ranges. In addition to the ones I gave you before there are 7 others for the L24 shown, including 18410-E4502 for automatics from 2/70 to 2/71 and 18410-E8803 for manuals from 6/70 to 7/73.

I think the only difference in 240Z choke cables is that the earliest cables were made of wire strands and the later ones were one solid cable. The later ones hold up better.

-Mike

I just checked with Nissan and the numbers for the choke cable for my year 240z are not available. Will the assemblies for later 240z's work with my early 71?

Yes, like I said before, I think the only difference for the various 240Z years is the solid cable vs the earlier wire strands. This is supported by the fact that they list part number 18410-E8803 for manual trans from 6/70 to 7/73. Not sure if the cables for automatics are actually different or not.

-Mike