What to replace in the steering system

[Rich1]

Finally, my 72 240 has left my garage for the paint & body shop.

While there, it will be stripped of its suspension and steering components. I know what I will be replaced in the suspension---but I haven't given much thought to the steering system yet.

My question is--what can I expect to replace (or should be replaced) in the steering system? The only steering parts purchased so far are a new coupler and rack bushings.

Thanks

Edited August 11, 2009 by Rich1

[ezzzzzzz]

Other than parts mentioned and outer tierods you're on your own. The boots may be available. There are no other parts available despite listings in parts catalogs. I intend to do some research to see what can be used for inner tierods. Seals and bearings within the rack should be able to be crossed based on dimensions. The rack and pinion should not show significant wear unless the assembly was never lubricated, boots were torn allowing for dirt infiltration, or it was maladjusted over it's lifespan.

[TomoHawk]

Check your ball joints. All the weight on the front rests on those.

[240ZX]

You may also find that the U-joints on the steering shaft are worn, causing play in the steering. These U-joints are a propritary item not available to the public.....imagine that!!? Best bet is to find a good steering shaft assembly at a Pick-A-Parts yard.....obviously from an early Z. How do I know this...?

Tom

[Rich1]

Thanks for the replies.

Should the wheel bearings be replaced? The car has been sitting for nearly 10 years.

[Zs-ondabrain]

Thanks for the replies.

Should the wheel bearings be replaced? The car has been sitting for nearly 10 years.

That would all depend on the shape and wear of the bearings. It's never a bad idea to replace them and the bearing races and repack the whole thing with new Hi temp bearing grease. (I think it's the red grease.)

Wipe out as much of the old grease as possible, don't want any bearing flakes or shrapnol in your new bearings. And remember to only tighten them a little more than finger tight while you spin the rotor. Then lock it down with a new cotter pin. and cap it off.

Dave

Edited August 12, 2009 by Zs-ondabrain